Question about 1991 Toyota Pickup

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My battery went flat, so I charged it and started the vehicle and noticed that it was only charging at 10 volts, I fitted a new alternator, and the battery now charges at 13.8 volts. however if I switch the radio and the lights on together the vehicle stops. I thought maybe a dud cell in the battery, so exchanged the battery and still the same problem. any ideas ? the voltage regulator is external from the alternator and its a 2.8 1996 diesel Hilux with a rear pump type alternator

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  • dch354 Sep 02, 2008

    I checked the engine earths and they were all good and clean, I retightened the main lead and everything looks ok. I fitted a new external regulator and this enabled the lights to work and also the radio at the same time, I exchanged the alternator again as the voltage only read 10 volts with the new regulator and the other new alternator only reads 10 volts as well, so still having problems, presumably if the alternator fuse was blown I would recieve no charge but also where is it located ?

  • Anonymous Sep 10, 2008

    What should be the RPM of the alternator when charging at 14 amperes

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Check all of your engine block grounds and positve leads, sounds like the regulator is working also check your main alernator fuse please rate -jeff

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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Do one thing, after you start your engine; Disconnect the battery while the engine is running, this is to test to see your alternator is good; if the engine is shut off then your alternator is bad. Seems like you have some kind of contact between your - and + terminal on your radio or lighting; I would check all the wiring to see if they're cracked or touching each other somewhere. I would go harbor freight to get a volt meter to trace it.

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

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KUN 26 D4D Hilux...something is draining the battery over 3 or 4 days...Alternater putting in 13.85v but battery goes flat over 4-5 days


13.85 volts is barely sufficient and would indicate an alternator fault if the reading was taken "off-load"..

An alternator is not designed to charge the battery and is incapable of doing so because the terminal voltage of the battery quickly rises to fool the voltage regulator into believing even a discharged battery is fully charged and will quickly reduce the charge rate to a trickle.

The alternator is therefore designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged by supplying all the current for the vehicle equipment and the output rating is chosen for this purpose.

The voltage regulator should limit the off-load voltage to about 14.5 volts but that is only a small part of the alternator test. A professional would apply a load across the battery equal to the rated output while monitoring the voltage and current. Most healthy alternators exceed specifications.

For a sensible in-service test when an adjustable load isn't available, with a fully-charged battery it is sufficient to start the engine, leaving it to idle and switch on all the vehicle equipment. Fit a voltmeter to the battery and wait while the battery voltage is pulled down by the load - to around 12.5 volts. Raising the engine speed to 2500/3000 rpm should cause the voltmeter to suddenly rise.
13.85 would be just about acceptable "on-load" but in excess of 14.0 volts would be ideal.

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