Question about 1995 Eagle Talon

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95 ESi Tranny noise!

When my car is running with the clutch disengaged there is a slight rattle coming from my transmission area, when engine is revved up the noise is louder than you can think. I assumed it was the throw-out barring and so, I replaced the entire clutch kit... this only made things worse, now there is a whining from the clutch when it is disengaged. Could this be the gear box? or what?

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  • dmccluney Aug 31, 2008

    Thanks! I'll be checking these things out asap!

  • dmccluney Aug 31, 2008

    well my entire clutch kit is one. The pressure plate, clutch teeth, the whole bit, is a mass of about 45 lbs, haha. Could it be something inside of that? Even though it is practically new.



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I have a 94 turbo awd, killer 2boxes, need a modified box, i did some up grades so i think it cant handle the powes, esspecially 3rd gear

Posted on Oct 01, 2008

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Yeah, usually this is the throw-out bearing and the input shaft combined. Mine does this (just a little bit) and it's never bothered me or gotten worse... so I haven't bothered.

Definitely a gearbox issue somewhere, but it could be any number of things... the most likely (above) is easy to check, but depending on whether there is any physical shaking when the noise occurs, it could even be a mis-aligned pressure-plate or just the plate itself.. if it's broken any springs/rubber absorbers or any part of the diaphragm. (you push the pressure-plate away from the friction-plate... it's no longer turning with the gearbox... and therefore the noise goes away.

If the pressure and friction plates were changed as part of your "kit", then they could be poorly aligned? (although unlikely because the input shaft spline is usually pretty tight.)

Last guess would be the input shaft itself... but it would have to be in a bad way (bent or something?) to make the kind of noise you are describing.

Good luck!

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

  • Steve Rand
    Steve Rand Aug 31, 2008

    Sorry, springs and rubber absorbers should be on the friction plate. If it's a full-face design, you don't need to worry about checking the puks... but 5/7/whatever puk friction plates usually have the pads (puks) riveted or bolted on with allen-key style bolts. These can break/fracture or come loose.

    Actually... an unbalanced friction plate could be the ticket? It shakes around on the input shaft, but stops moving when you push the clutch out. Perhaps?

  • Steve Rand
    Steve Rand Sep 02, 2008

    Good stuff! Good luck and thanks for the feedback!



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