Question about 1998 Land Rover Range Rover
There is a slow leak in the lines to the system.
SO after sitting a while, my rover will be sitting all the way down. after I started it up I was able to hear the compressor come on, and after several minutes the system will fill up and the rover would go up. And I was able to drive it without any problems.
the other day I wanted to go for a ride, I started it up and waited.... only this time it never did go up. I listened for the pump to come on and could hear it come on, but after just a few seconds it would go back off. I was able to jump leads to the compressor and it works.
I was able to check the relay and the fuses under the hood; I found the timer relay under the drivers seat and they all checked out fine.
Is there another relay or sensor somewhere else that I have missed?
Is there someone who can help with an answer to this problem?
Disconnect the thin wire on the suspension pump , this is the overheat switch which sticks at times.If it's working after that use a solution of dish liquid and water and spray this all over the pipes, connectors and air springs to find your leak.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
Range rover P38
No cutting just add a wire to get your pump to run
Connect a wire to the orange cable on the compressor pump and the other end to ground
that will stop the heat switch working inside the pump
dont cut the orange cable just remove some of the its sleving
make sure all doors are closed and the bonnet and tail gate aswell and the engine is running
ps this will only work if its your over heat switch inside the compressor pump not working, which is the most common fault
Its the timmy g
Posted on Mar 09, 2009
SOURCE: EAS pump problems
ur thermal sensor in the compressor probably tell sthe compressor to turn off. this is what happened to mine. there is a way to bypass this, go to rangerovers.net to find out how.
Posted on Sep 06, 2008
Unfortunately I believe that will require a trip to the dealer, and a hefty price tag to go with it. Most dealers refuse to let anyone else handle their security systems. And most keys have the alarm keypad built in making it even more dealer specific. I wish I could give better news.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
hi, this is a long shot so dont give me negative if no joy.
on the p38 they suffer from a bad electronic selector.
now, i do not have a clue what gear box or transfer you have.
any way if you look at your transfer, beside where the prop comes out, is ther like a window wiper motor with 6 wires.
if so they get stuck, rust or dirt etc.
have you checked your fuses, alos i would add. again not sure on your model.
in the fuse box there is a blank fuse, when inserted it shifts it to neutral.
the dealers wont tell you where it is.
have you put any fuses in etc, i did this 5 year ago, a p38 was jump started, leads wrong way.
i got a call as the aa did not want to help anymore. aa had a hand full of fuses out, i stuck in were contacts were. after new ecu had no drive.
you are sure its not a gearbox fault, get back to me if not sure, i can tell you how to test this.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
SOURCE: My P38 Range Rover wont start
Bring your vehicle to an auto parts or battery store. Ask if they could perform a 'Load Check' on your battery. This not only checks the voltage, but also the amps, as if it were under the load of turning your engine.
It takes a few seconds and the results are pass or fail. Fail means it's time for a new battery. Pass means we need to look elsewhere.
Comment back the results.
Hope you find this to be very helpful
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
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