Question about 1992 Buick Riviera

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Starting I have a 1992 Riviera and when i put the key in the ignition an go to start it it don't do anything,  all the lights come on and the dash lights up like it normally do but the car wont start. Any suggestions?

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  • dt31902 Aug 30, 2008

    No the motor don't turn over.  For the last 2 weeks it would make a clicking sound when i tried to turn the car on and wouldn't start,(not every time i started the car)  so id just leave it in the on position for 10 sec then try to start it and it would start. This morning i didn't have any problems started just fine, then this afternoon it made the clicking sound an just wouldn't start,  

  • dt31902 Aug 30, 2008

    Ok thank you very much. I was thinking it was the chip in the key. Good thing I asked.  

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Does it try to start at all? does the motor turn over?

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • Ronnie Houston Aug 30, 2008

    sounds like the starter on the car is going bad...theres a solenoid on the starter and if its not working all the time the car wont start.i would say the solenoid is either bad or going bad on the starter.that would explain the click you hear when you try to start it

  • Ronnie Houston Aug 30, 2008

    have the starter and solenoid checked to be sure but to me it sounds as if the solenoid is going out.thats the first thing id check....if it were the chip in the key it would fail to start anytime not just periodically

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Starts then dies


Hi Rita, are there any warning lights on the dash? How long does it run for. starting and running for a second or two would indicate an immobilizer fault and that the key has lost its code with the car That would need to go to a garage. Jon

Dec 09, 2013 | 1993 Buick Riviera

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I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

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1 Answer

I had just driven the car. I shut it off in the parking lot because of a long phone call. When I went to start it, I got nothing. We tried jump starting it with no results. The key got stuck in the...


is the security light on on your dash .check for theft code ,if security light flashes your problem is your theft system .i've repaired alot of these .if you have questions call me at 270-556-7357 or whubby@live.com

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1 Answer

How do you change the bulb on the check engine light


must remove dash to get to it.

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92' buick riviera has lights, won't start


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Even with a fully charged battery, if the terminals are oxidized, you will have a "break" in the connection when the electrical demand is high (starter draws more than just about anything else in vehicle)
Before worrying about anything else, remove the battery leads and clean them (both on battery and inside surface of cable ends. This cures over 80% of most starting problems and MUST be done before any further testing, or values obtained for tests will be inaccurate.

Oct 19, 2008 | 1995 Buick Riviera

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