Cheapest scenario is to change the transmission filter. That is if it is an automatic. When you do this, most transmissions have a magnet in the transmission pan. If yours has one I would check it for excessive metal shavings or worse metal chunks.
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Wow that's a new one, I never read this on any sites, I am no mechanic so I am not saying your wrong, what is the magnet for? And should I take it to just any common garage and tell them to do this, or should I trust the transmission shop to do this and not just try to sell me on something I dont need? Thanks for the advice! Much
I usually do this myself. It is fairly simple. Since it is a tahoe and has decent ground clearance, you can do without jacking up the vehicle possibly. If you crawl under the vehicle (can lay some carboard or a blanket) right under teh drivers door and look up. You should see a square or rectangular pan that has anywhere from 12 to 18 bolts surrounding the edge. figure what size bolt is is and use a rachet or wrench to remove the bolts out from one side. You will want a oil pan under that side to catch the transmission fluid. Then slowly remove the bolts alternately from side to side. Starting from the end that you already have removed the bolts from. This will allow the transmission pan to come down slowly and drain the fluid in the cleanest possible manner. Once you have drained most the fluid, undo the rest of teh mounting bolts. The pan will come off. Now I should have stated this earlier, but you will want to buy the transmission filter first. this usually comes with anew transmission pan gasket. Use the new filter as a reference to locate the old one. It should obvious. To remove the old filter just pull it down. It may take some time so be patient. Once it is out put the new one in. Now before installing the transmission pan, be sure to remove the black rubber gasket and install the new one. This is to ensure you have a good seal between teh pan and teh transmission. Then reinstall the transmission pan by bolting it back up. Be sure not to overtighten the bolts. Then all you have to do is refill the transmission with ATF of dextron (Automatic Transmission Fluid) through the dipstick tube. When you go to the auto parts store they will be able to tell you how much oil and what type you need. Once you have refilled the transmission, start the truck and run the gear selector lever through the gears (keeping your foot on teh brake). This allows the fluid to flow through the transmission. Then check the fluid with the truck engine running and in park to ensure it is filled to the proper level.
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SOURCE: What could cause an oil leak in a 2002 MB C240?
If you had the oil changed lately and the "O" ring stuck where the filter unscrews and someone proceeded to put the new filter on without looking this can cause a problem. Putting too much oil in the crankcase can cause a seal to blow. A leak at the oil pressure switch. A loose or not sealed oil drain plug. You will need to try to locate whether it is coming from the bottom or at the top around the valve pan cover which is the most likely place, and if it that is the case; it still can drip through the night while it sets, which is missleading. If you can't find any noticeable places...that is a good place to start...at the valve pan cover...seal it real well with RTV sealer, let it dry over night and see if the problem goes away.
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If it's 90 degrees out and the air coming out the heat vents feels lukewarm than that is going to be a nice warm air when you need to heat on. The next thing I would check is to make sure the antifreeze is up to the full level in the radiator as well as the overflow tank. Check these when the car is cool obviuosly but the heat will not work properly if it is low on coolant. If he just got the head gaskets replaced then there is a chance that there is an air pocket in the coolant passages in the engine, that causes an air lock that could prevent the water pump from circulating antifreeze through the heater core. Once again with the engine cool, take off the radiator cap and then start the vehicle and let it idle until it gets up to operating temps and see if air bubbles are coming up in the coolant and see if you can see the coolant flowing. If there is an air pocket than it will escape through the uncapped radiator and you will notice the level going down, in which you put more antifreeze in up to the full level and then you should be good to go. ONly after you have checked that out thoroughly would I consider teh heater core as teh problem.
Good Luck
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