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Okay diagnostics 101: 1) Do the spark plugs have spark? 2) Does the vehicle have air?, i.e. is the air-filter condition okay?3) Does the vehicle have fuel?, i/e/ is the fuel pump operational and is the filter clogged? If the vehicle has all of these three things, then either the mixture of air and fuel is faulty, or the spark timing is faulty. A common issue on a vehicle if it doesn't have an issue with the supply of all of those things is the MAF sensor or the Manifold pressure sensor, which can give false readings to the ECU and cause the ECU to provide an incorrect fuel injection, resulting in an incorrect fuel to air ratio. Please let me know how your diagnostics works out.
Here's the thing. The ECU will shut down AC if the engine temperature is too hot. If the coolant temperature sensor is malfunctioning (lying to the ECU) telling it that the temperature is hotter than it actually is, the computer will turn the AC OFF.
Yeah... why did you change the MAF?... Someone tell you the MAF caused your transmission to shift from 5th to 3rd?... I don't think so!
Did the 'Check Engine' Light come ON? Whenever the 'CHECK ENGINE' light comes on, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). These codes identify the particular engine management system which caused the light to come on. You'll need to use/find an OBDII (On-Board Diagnostic) Scanner to retrieve any code which have been stored in the ECU computer. Afterward, we might be able to help you DIAGNOSE and perhaps eventually fix the problem.
It needs to be diagnosed. It's normal for the AC to shut down when the engine overheats. The engine computer (called the ECU - Engine Control Unit) monitors the coolant temperature by means of a coolant temperature sensor (cts). When this sensor tells the computer the engine is too hot (above 230 to 240 degrees), the ECU turns off the AC compressor and the cooling system fans go to MAXIMUM (HIGH) speed. By the way, there are two engine/coolant temp sensors - one for the instrument gauges, the other for the ECU. If this sensor is malfunctioning, it can cause the symptom you describe - BUT that needs to be verified. Best solution, take it back into the mechanics/technicians and have them determine if that's all this is, because if it isn't, something else could be seriously wrong (clogged radiator, malfunctioning water pump, bad thermostat (even though it's new (or maybe it didn't actually get replaced), and there's a slew of other possible causes.. leaking head gasket for one. Best have the professionals (if they are professional) diagnose it.
I had a similar problem with my 1995 Sonata... turns out, the coolant temperature sensor had gone bad and was telling the ECU (Engine Control Unit) that the engine coolant temperature was at minus (-) 40 degrees. The ECU then INCREASED the fuel to air ratio and the engine wouldn't start because the ACTUAL temperature was like 195 degrees F. - same as flooding the engine with excess fuel. There's also a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor which could be malfunctioning (telling the ECU that LESS air is coming in than ACTUALLY is .. OR the REVERSE). It seems to me your hyundai mechanic (supposidly TECHNICIAN) isn't a technician/mechanic at all.... sorry,, forgive me. I'm a 'PLATINUM' certified Hyundai Tech... The diagnostic procedure for solving your problem is exact and precise... he/she doesn't know what he/she is doing. Oh, there's also a possibility the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) may be contributing to the problem. The 30 mins to 1 hr delay points to the coolant temp sensor.