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Re: rear brakes locking up with slight touch of brake...
Most of the time with the rear brakes locking up the brake drums are warpped. If you remove the rear brake drums and take them to almost any auto parts store (Napa, Checkers ect.) they will turn the drums for about $10 a piece.
After you have the drums turned you will need to readjust the rear brakes.
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Apply service brake pedal three times with a force of approximately 175 lbs.
Fully apply and release parking brake three times. Full application may require two pedal strokes.
Raise and support vehicle, then mark relationship between wheel and axle flange.
Check parking brake pedal assembly for full release as follows:
Turn ignition switch to On position.
If ``Brake\'\' lamp is illuminated, operate manual brake release and pull downward on front parking brake cable to remove slack from pedal assembly.
Remove rear wheel and tire assemblies, then install two lug nuts to retain each rotor assembly.
If two parking brake levers on both calipers are not against lever stops on caliper housings, check for binding in rear cables and/or loosen cables at adjuster until both left and right levers are against their stops.
Tighten parking brake cable at adjuster until either the left or right lever begins to move off the stop, then loosen adjustment until lever moves back barely touching stop.
Operate parking brake several times to check adjustments. A firm pedal feel should be obtained by pumping pedal two full strokes and rear wheels should not rotate forward when parking brake is fully applied.
Install wheel and tire assemblies, aligning marks made in step 3.
does the pedal have pressure then go down after valve is cracked? With a hose on the nipple to a bottle to catch the fluid, press rear brake pedal down. Don\'t pump the brakes. Crack the bleeder valve while continuing to press down on the pedal. Once the pedal reaches the limit of its travel close the valve. Once the valve is closed; and not before; release the pedal and let it return to its at rest position. Repeat this process until you have good pedal without the need to pump, good clean fluid is coming out the valve, and no air is in the fluid coming out the valve. Be sure not to let the fluid in reservoir get too low or you will suck in air and need to start over and don\'t press the pedal too quickly or you can shoot a stream of brake fluid out the reservoir.
In very extreme cases, if you have lost prime in the master cylinder, it may be necessary to bleed the master cylinder first. THIS IS A LAST RESORT. Remove the brake line from the master cylinder. Try to limit the loss of fluid from the brake line to bare minimum. Thread a nipple into the master cylinder. Run a hose from the nipple into the reservoir. Be sure the hose stays submerged in the fluid in the reservoir and pump the brake until no bubbles come out the hose. Remove the nipple and reinstall the brake line. Slowly press down the brake pedal while tightening the line to minimize the air bubble in the brake line. Again be sure not to release the pedal until the line is tight. Then proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would. Do not pump the brakes up. Just press the pedal down, crack the valve, close the valve, release the pedal, repeat.
Adjust the brake pedal switch located on the upper side of the brake pedal under the dash. To adjust the stop light switch, disconnect the two wires attached to the rear of the switch, move the switch by loosening the lock nut towards the brake pedal. As soon as the center pin of the switch begins to touch the brake pedal notch, rotate the switch half turn more and lock it by tightening the lock nut. Connect the wires back and ask your companion to see the tail lamps while you depress and release the brake pedal. Or you can see the tail lamp behavior by parking the car on reverse at a distance of one foot from any wall.
This can be caused by a defective anti lock brake system ABS for short, this year has active ABS, this means the system can apply hydraulic pressure to the brakes with the driver never touching the brake pedal, if the valve that controls this pressure to the wheel leaks or sticks the brakes will lock up. To confirm this release pressure at the wheel by opening the brake caliper bleeder valve at the top of the brake caliper with the engine off. If the wheel spins free after the pressure is released you will need the ABS checked and quite possibly a new ABS hydraulic control unit. This type of failure is very rare but it does happen
This could be master cylinder not fully releasing. Is pedal fully coming back to the stop? It needs to so it uncovers the ports to let the pressure release.
Also, try loosening the bleeder screws just a little to see if the calipers release.
Disc brake pads barely release by design, maybe just a few thousandths of an inchgap.
ABS is anti-lock braking system. It is a range of four sensors which monitor the braking capability when you apply the brakes. If you are harsh and stamp on the brake pedal there is a risk of the wheels locking up and sliding (screeching from the tires).
The ABS sensors modulate the brake caliper pistons andapply and let go the brakes very quickly. This stops the tires from skidding and you will feel a pulse through the brake pedal as the hydraulic system is forced to release the pedal slightly for a fraction of a second.
As ABS stops your car from skidding it allows you to turn the steering when you are braking hard. This is good news for avoiding accidents. If you lock the wheels on a non ABS car, you continue in the direction of the wheels - unless you release the brakes and reapply quickly (same method as ABS) this is called cadence braking but when involved with a potential accident the last thing on people's minds is to release the brake pedal. Having only owned older cars, cadence braking is one method I've learned, especially from driving in the snow.
there is a brake regulator on modern systems which controls the power between the front and the back breaks this maybe defective
when a car breaks most of the breaking force is placed on the front breaks as that is where most of the energy is heading so the car sinks down. if the same amount of breaking force is placed on the back wheels as they rise they have less friction as the weight is forward so they will lock up. the device is designed to maintain more force to the front, if it fails the system will apply even force to all wheels.
recommend cosulting a certifed garage or local dealership about this problem. Warning; continual driving with defctive breaks is illegal and may result in injury or loss.
Have rear brakes checked for improperly adjusted, as well as emergency cables partially seized. Backing up and stopping quick, frequently, can also cause self adjusters to operate & tighten things up too much.