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The rear brake line should run down the left frame rail from the master cylinder to the rear of the car. It will terminate to a bulkhead reverse flare fitting into a rubber hose above the center of the axel differential cover, a tee fitting will tee the lines to each rear wheel backing plate, reverse flare fitting for wheel cylinder. If brake fluid is present (droplets) at brake drums, Replace the wheel cylinders.
if you have a hydraulic clutch ( no transmission offered) check the slave cylinder for leaks ( some cars use the brake master cylinder as a reservoir for the hydraulic clutch)
check the brake booster to master cylinder mounting for leaks or the rear seal of the master cylinder may be faulty allowing fluid to pass to the booster chamber
check for a leak under pressure at the rear flexible rubber hose from the body on
Have to fabricate new brake tubing & just replace the rusted
lines as you see them.
If you get under there & look, you will have your answer
A guess from my experience, would say you start at the proportioning valve & go past the door & leak, to the rear
somewhere at a junction block on the axle housing or to an
abs hcu unit, if one of them there along the way
Sometimes you need to make two lines with a union under the door,
as that is the longest run under a truck & to do one piece may not be
possible & get it in place, with all the bends & things you have to pass
On a 1996, I would suggest you bleed all four corners first
Then remove the master cylinder & clean out the moisture
Then replace All rubber flex hoses
Then replace the entire brake system lines
Once one rusts out, their all months apart & unsafe to use
piece mealing it one section at a time
jack up the rear end high and place chassis rails on stands. Remove wheels . disconnect brake hose to the rear and use a hose pincher to stop brake fluid leaking out . Disconnect the hand brake cable at a convenient point ( probably at the rear of the transmission. Disconnect the drive shaft at the diff pinion and lay to one side . Place the jack under the diff housing centre and take a bit of weight. . If you have leaf springs --undo the "U" bolts around the housing . If coil springs undo the track rods by removing all the pivot bush bolts. Lower the diff housing down and pull out from under the car. Make any changes you have to, to the other diff housing before placing it on the jack and placing it under the car Reassembly is the reverse process of removal.. Bleed rear brakes on completion of the job.
Sounds like the rear heater lines are leaking. You can cut them and replace them with rubber hose or by-pass it by just blocking them both off. The call is going to be made when you get on your back and slide under it to evaluate the condition of the rest of the line(s). Heater hose is what they use all the way back on conversion vans so don't be afraid of using a little hose if you need the rear heat next winter. st Just make sure you fasten it to the frame well so the snow and ice dont pull them down and brake them. (If you live in the snow belt like me)
Good Luck and God Bless
i dont know of any recall for that
and yes it can be replaced without removing the bedeasy wasy too do it is go too auto zone and buy a roll of brake line and run it along side of the old one and just leave the old one in the hangers and use tie straps too hang the new one!!!
The only real solution to your problem is to replace the damaged line, bleed the brakes, and check for leaks after you are done. The line should go up to the frame, and go into a small metal bracket that is welded to the frame. The hose is usually held in place by a small metal clip, and a steel brake line will thread into the end of the hose assy. where it terminates in the frame mounted brakcet.