Question about 2000 Toyota Celica

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2000 Toyota Celica GTS has no INJECTOR pulse it CRANKS-won't start HELP!

My 2000 Toyota Celica GTS ( 6 speed manual) has been to 4 shops already (including the dealer). I bought the car on Ebay recently from a Gentleman who said the car was sitting for 9 months (in Buffallo, New York). He claimed it ran "fine" at the time. I got it for a good price-so when he told me the car wouldn't start I bought it anyway. I figured the repair shouldn't be too expensive. Boy, was I WRONG! The car cranks strong-but won't start. The cam and crank sensors have been replaced. A used computer (engine) didn't seem to solve the problem. The dealer wanted to change the whole wiring harness (at a cost of $2,600). I can't afford that, so I sent it to another mechnaic. He called me after replacing a relay (on the right side of the console) and had the car running for a short time. It ran poorly-and after an hour-wouldn't start again. Its now at a forth shop. They just called me and told me so far the only problem they found was no injector pulse. The car WILL start on Ether-but not continue to run. They told me its NOT the fuel pump. Does anyone have the foggiest idea what to do next? I would GREATLY appreicate ANY help on this nightmare !
God Bless,
John Ryan
Staten island
New York

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  • 3 more comments 
  • 494chicken Aug 29, 2008

    a quck note...all the cables and wires have been checked for looseness/fraying.

  • 494chicken Aug 29, 2008

    Thanks very much for the the advice. Unfortunately, all the relays were checked already. As far as the TPI, I'll have to call my mechnaic with that suggestion.

  • 494chicken Aug 29, 2008

    Thanks VERY MUCH to all so far...no solution yet...

  • 494chicken Aug 29, 2008

    more great suggestions. The second mechanic to work on the car was a supposed electrical specialist. He spent several days testing the wires you have mentioned. He thought there was a possibility there was a problem with the factory alarm...

  • 494chicken Aug 30, 2008

    I want to SINCERELY THANK all the members that have responded! I will try some suggestions and let everyone know.

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Ok power TO the injectors is supplied THROUGH the IG3 relay and the computer supplied the ground circuit, but the computer must receive a signal from the crand and cam sensors to 'PULSE' the injectors. Make sure that one side of the injectors have 12V with the key on
If you disconnect an injector connector and connect a 12v test light across the connector ( one end of the testlight to one terminal of the disconnected connector and the other end of the testlight to the other terminal in the same cnnector) ccrank the engine the test light should Blink Do this to all Four (4) injectors and if they all blink you have either shorted injectors or plugged which is unusual for all 4 to be plugged.
But if you do not have a Blink you have to see if the computer is receiving the singals telling it that the engine is cranking over, and if the signal TO the injectors from the computer is available if so then you could have a wiring harness problem but again its so rare that all four injector wires and only the injector wires are bad don't you agee?
Please call me and I can explain this in more detail or contact me at fixincars@yahoo.com
253-691-6206
Thanks Randy I believe its not tht big of a probles as everyone makes it out to be
please rate this as a fixya if you feel my information is correct.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

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Dear Sir/Madam,

Follow these steps.....

ENGINE CRANKS OKAY BUT WON'T START If the engine cranks over normally when you attempt to start you car, but the engine does not start, the problem may be NO FUEL, NO SPARK or NO COMPRESSION. The engine needs adequate fuel pressure, a properly timed spark and normal compression to start.
TIP: To find why the engine won't start, remove the air inlet tube from the throttle body, push the throttle open and spray a small amount of aerosol starting fluid into the engine. Crank the engine. IF it has spark and compression but NO FUEL, it will start and run a few seconds before dying. If it does NOT start, it probably has NO SPARK.

TIP: Another method to check for spark is to pull a spark plug wire off of a spark plug (if it has plug wires, coil-on-plug ignitions do not) and place the open end of the plug wire near a metal surface on the engine. Have a helper crank the engine while you watch for a spark. DO NOT hold the wire while doing this as it can shock you. If you see a spark, the problem is not spark, but most likely NO FUEL or NO COMPRESSION. If you do not see a spark, the problem is in the IGNITION CIRCUIT.

TIP: Proper fuel pressure is critical for fuel injected engines to start and run. You should hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank buzz for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on (no buzz means the pump is not running and the engine is not getting fuel). You can smell the tailpipe for gasoline vapors after cranking the engine. If you smell gas, the problem is likely not fuel but NO SPARK. You can also remove the plastic cap and press the schraeder valve test fitting on the fuel rail to see if there is any fuel pressure to the engine (not a very accurate test because fuel pressure must be at a certain level for the engine to start, for that you need a gauge). Even so, no fuel at the fuel rail would tell you fuel is not getting to the engine.

thanks
good luck


Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • Asfiya Ahamed
    Asfiya Ahamed Aug 30, 2008

    Sir,



    1. Make sure the drivers front(left front) door is closed and you have your car keys.

    2. Insert your door key into the drivers door and turn it to the locked position two times.

    3. Then turn the key to the unlock position twice.

    4. The alarm should be disarmed, now.

    5. SECOND TECHNIQUE:

    6. If not then take the ignition key and turn the ignition switch all the way ON then OFF then ON a second time and OFF again.

    7. These are the procedures for nearly all factory alarm systems.

    8. If neither of these works you probably have an after
      market(add-on) alarm system. Disarming a after market alarm system with
      your ignition key will be discussed in a future post.










    Warnings


    This technique is only for use on your own car that you
    own and have keys for. If you don't have the keys- disconnect the
    negative battery cable to stop the horn until you get your keys. Then
    reconnect the negative terminal and proceed to step one


    thanks
    goodluck


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The symptoms you describe are similar to someone having put diesel in the tank instead of petrol, I have seen this many times in the past. I honestly think what you have is a bad case of dirty injectors, you said the car had stood for quite a while, petrol additives have a tendency to turn to a varnish like substance when left to stand for a while.
You said it will run on ether for a moment, that in itself tells you it is not an ignition fault, if you had no spark it wouldn't run at all.

If I were you I would invest in a set of reconditioned injectors or have yours reconditioned and a new fuel filter.
We used to flush the pump, tank and all the way through to the fuel rail on the inlet manifold with what was known as "gun wash".
Gun wash, is cheap and nasty paint thinners that was used to clean the spray guns at the end of the day and is ideal for this kind of thing. I used to restore old sports cars for a living and I have spent many an hour cleaning out fuel systems of the varnish where a car has stood for a long time.
This place http://www.rockauto.com/ has a good online catalogue and is selling recon injectors for your car for $29 plus shipping.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

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  • 46 Answers

After a car has been sitting for a while the fuel can gunk up cuasing it to plugg mainly the injectors.

If it runs on ether, and you have fuel pressure on at the fuel rail, I would take a really close look at the injectors.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • luis caban
    luis caban Mar 28, 2014

    the car to not have eletric from the relay to the starter

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  • LORETO LACARON
    LORETO LACARON Sep 07, 2008

    Did the solutions from all of us experts solved your problem if not then let us know the current updates so all the fixya experts can assist you further.

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Hi,
I would say check the starter coil... the only thing between the battery and the starter is the coil (relay)
try jumping power to the coil's positive lead if it fires then trace out the ignition keyswitch. (that may involve ripping the steering colum apart...) Be sure to check all fuses in passenger area and under hood as well(if you haven't already)

Thanks

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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Hi,
Check the small black wire at the solenoid and make sure it is clean and tight. If it is clean and tight check for power with a test light when the key is in the START position. If there is no power you can use this wiring diagram to backtrack and find the problem.
2000 Toyota Celica GTS has no INJECTOR pulse it CR - 87810092.gif
Thanks

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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I'm going to have to agree with keemo68 on the TPS and fuel pump relay, but I'm also going to suggest checking the injector sensor/sensors and the pressure check valve on the fuel rail.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

  • Ryan Rogers
    Ryan Rogers Aug 29, 2008

    You might also check to see if this has an emergency fuel kill on it. The fuel kill could be effecting the fuel injectors.

  • Ryan Rogers
    Ryan Rogers Aug 30, 2008

    Hope it works out for you.

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Ryan the problem most like ly is a throttle position sensor or the fuel pump relay. the relay is located in the fuse box under the hood. the throttle position sensor is located on the throttle body the cost of these is no more than 40 dollars. hope this helps good luck. please rate this solution

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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Check all of the battery terminals and cables and check the wires on the starter/selonoid, start from the battery and follow the cable out and check all conections , clean and tighten them and if it still does it the starter/selonoid is bad and needs replacement...

Hope that helps..........

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Mark Gil
    Mark Gil Aug 29, 2008

    If all of my suggestions are already done, this may need some type of engine overhaul and probably some parts of the car may needs some replacement,try to take it again to a different mechanic that specialized on engines..this is all I can advice you for now...

  • Mark Gil
    Mark Gil Aug 30, 2008

    Diagnosing this problem will be very hard for us since even alot of mechanic already take a lokk on it and they haven't fix it, hopefully you will find a mechanic that can definitely solve this problem...



    Good luck.......

  • Mark Gil
    Mark Gil Aug 30, 2008

    You're welcome, feel free to contact us back if you wtill need help..



    Thank you..............

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The second hand cars have lots of this problems.and hence you should have checked the car parts properly before buying it.you were so gentle person that you beleived the person without getting it checked. now the option is either you have to use the $2600 to get it repaired from the proper dealer.or just do not invest on this car.as it will make you spend more n more money on this car.because the local technician cannot match the company technician.now the choice is yours.
thanks
please do rate the solution.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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Based on past issues like this I would take a close look at the wiring harness issue, I am not saying replace it, but do a PIN OUT test of the injector circuit from the fuel injection procssor also known as the PCM to the fuel injectors on the engine, I think this what the dealer did, they most likely found it had a short or was an open circuit. Another thing you can do is run a web search for a used wiring harness, which harness did the dealer want to replace? the main body harness or the engine harness, most likely the problem is the engine harness, the engine harness gets the most wear and tear from heat and engine movement during normal operation. Ask the dealer for a detailed reason for there diagnosis of a wiring harness? did the system have any trouble codes? You need to know these things to get to the bottom of this as cheaply as possible. Hope this helps, I did auto electronics work for 20 years, have seen many problems like yours. You paid for the information ask for it.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Aug 29, 2008

    Do you have any idea how hard it is to diagnose a problem like your from a computer terminal????, If I were there it would get fixed, period, I have a 99% fix rate after 30 years as a automotive repair technician. Why don't you fix it yourself smart A>>>>>

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