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Re: Brake lamps in-op
You're going to have to back probe the wiring to see where exactly the power goes away at. This can be a pain in the rear end. It sounds to me that there's a broken wire somewhere. Check behind the fuse block and see if you have a broken wire there or the fuse holder itself has corrosion at one of the connections.
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tails lights are the GLOW when the headlights are pulled one cluck or 2, tails are also parking light (one click) stop lamps HAVE nothing to do with that, he never said but implies, the brake lamps are dead. but OP, try posting what is dead, and not mix TL with BL.
my tails lamps are out , whith head lamps on. or when i brake , both stop lamps are out. this will help.
If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.
Not to worry. Power for the stoplight switch comes from 20A fuse 5 in the power distribution center and is applied to the brake lamp switch (confusing, no?). Switch output is connected to a junction block and then to the center high mounted stop lamp. If you press the brake pedal, even with the engine off, the center high mounted stop light should come on.
Battery power is applied through 15A fuse 1 in the I/P fuse panel. It passes through the brake on/off switch and is routed through the multi-function switch to the stop lamps. When the brake on/off switch is closed, the stop lamps light. Possible failures include the fuse, the brake on/off switch, the multi-function switch, and the filaments of the multi-purpose rear lights.
The brake lamp circuits on your 1997 BMW Z3 are pretty "old-school" and straight forward. Fuse #46 (15 Amp), located in the Front Power Distribution Box at the left rear side of the engine compartment supplies battery voltage to the brake light switch via the VIOLET/GREEN wire going into the switch. When the bake pedal is depressed, the voltage leaves the brake lamp switch on the BLUE/RED wire and supplies power to all of the brake lamp bulbs.
The brake lamp circuits do branch off and go to several control modules. This is ONLY for module INPUT to tell the module that the brakes are being applied. These modules include: > Transmission Control Module > Cruise Control Module > ABS Control Module > Slip Control Module
The ONLY way that any of these modules could be affecting the operation of your brake lamps is if there is an internal short to ground in the module that is causing the brake lamp fuse to blow.
If NONE of your brake lamps are working, the most likely causes are: > Fuse #46 open (blown) > Defective brake lamp switch > Bad ground connection at ground G400 (Left side of luggage compartment) > All 3 of your brake lamp bulbs burned out.
Yes, the BLUE/RED wire could be broken as well, but I would check all the other things listed above first.
Use a test light and see if there is power to the switch. Then depress the pedal and you should have power on both sides. If there is no power to the switch, check the harness from the fuse box to the switch. If it got that hot, it may have melted the wire covering in the harness. You can use a jumper wire to the power side of the switch and try the brake pedal. You can get an inline fused wire and connect to the power side wire and see if it blows the fuse. That will tell you if the feed in wire is grounded. If there is power at the switch and goes through when you press the pedal down, look at the harness under the truck, especially around connections. Hope this helps. Mike
Sounds like a brake lamp switch or fuse.
Check all fuses electrically, with a test probe you can purchase from any auto parts store. Go through each fuse with the probe touching the end or tip of the fuse after clipping the lead on the probe to a good ground. If the probe lights up at both ends of the fuse, the fuse is sound, if it only lights up at one end then replace that fuse and if the probe does not light up at all, that fuse is not active so turn on the ignition but dont start the motor.
The brake lamp switch is attached to the brake pedal. It may have a single wire or several. All the switch does is connect the brake lamp circuit to an active supply rail so, The switch should have one active wire and the other wire should become active when the pedal is pressed. If it does not, replace the switch. If it does, then you may have two blown bulbs in the rear lamps or a damaged wiring harness to the rear lamps and you should seek the advice of a qualified person. Start with the fuses, then the switch, then the bulbs..and remember, you may have more then one fuse panel in the vehicle so check under the hood too..
The brake fuse #1 is located inside the truck below the steering column. I am assuming you have verified there is 12v power at the fuse & thru the brake lamp switch (orange wire power in & white wire power out, when pedal depressed) at all times. After the brake lamp switch , power goes (white wire) to the Turn signal/hazard lamp switch & out (dark green wire-rt brake lamp & yellow left brake lamp)