Question about 1997 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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Oil consumption in a merc c 250td 1997

This car has had a fuel problem which has now been rectified, (new pipe work, one new injector and a one way switch fitted). It had an oil change, and had Castrol Magnitec put in. It immediatley started to use large amounts of oil. (No useage before). No leaks, and no noticable smoke from the exhaust. I've changed to a 5/40 which has reduced the amount used, but it still uses about 1 litre to about 700 miles. It has done 95000 miles and still drives beautifully.
I have a couple of theories, the injector replaced was leaking, and could have worn the bore, or when the head was removed, they disturbed the carbon around the top of the cylinders and it has to build up again.

Can you shed any new expert light on this for me?

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  • bongo_baker Aug 31, 2008

    Thanks for your answer, but how does adjusting the injector pump solve the oil consumption? This car never used a drop of oil until the new injector was fitted.

  • bongo_baker Aug 31, 2008

    Thanks Pyrhyc for your answer, but being an ignorant English Man, you recommended a straight weight oil, can you translate straight weight oil for me? does this mean 20/50 and 30/50 in England?

  • bongo_baker Sep 14, 2008

    Thanks for all your comments. I'm sorry I've not accepted or made a comment for a while, but have been laid up in bed. all well now though.



    Are there any more ideas about this vehicles use of oil?

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9 Answers

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Simple solution to try is an oil additive such as lucas ,stp.... this would increase vecosity and rejuvenate some of the seals worth a try good luck

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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Kakee is right try to adjust fuel pump injector...its connected with propeller

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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It means 30/50 in England.
for any thing else let me know.

thanks.
pls rate the solution.

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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Check the pcv valve they get gummed up and cause the car to use oil

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

  • Ronnie Houston Sep 14, 2008

    change the pcv valve out clogged it will make the car use alot of oil

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Sir/Madam,

The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner’s manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it’s any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.
As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it’s important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.
For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multiviscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.
Straight weight 30W and 40W oils aren’t very popular anymore, but some diehards insist on using them. They say the thicker oil holds up better under high temperature (which it does), increases oil pressure and reduces oil consumption in high mileage engines. But straight 30W and 40W oils are too thick for cold weather and may make an engine hard to start. They may also be too thick to provide adequate start-up lubrication to critical upper valvetrain components during cold weather. So switching to a straight 20W oil would be necessary for cold weather driving. Straight 10W oil can also improve cold starting, but is very thin and should only be used in sub-zero climates. A multiviscosity 10W-30 or 10W-40 will provide the same cold starting benefits of a 10W oil and the high temperature protection of a 30W or 40W oil.
For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:

  • Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
  • Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
  • Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn’t great, but it can make a noticeable difference.
  • Longer oil change intervals. Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, some suppliers say oil change intervals can be safely extended -- in some cases stretched to as much as 25,000 miles. Such claims are justified by the fact that synthetics don’t break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do in use. CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM’s maintenance schedule can void your warranty.
    Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.
    There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.
    Who should use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:
    • Turbocharged or supercharged engines
    • Performance or high output engines
    • Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
    • Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
    • Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection
    thanks
  • good luck

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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When have smoke out the tail pipe, often that is because of valve stem seals that are not sealing the oil from running down the valve stem and into engine causing smoke for some times and then clearing up.
This can be fixed without removing the heads, remove spark plugs and put air into cylinder, so to hold valve upp. Remove valve spring, and install a new seal.
When it is a ring problem instead, you also lose power and compression, this usually means the engine it is coming to the end of its life.

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

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If you have no noticeable leaks, then your theory is most likely correct. Check the tail pipes, if they are blacker than usual, or there is a Little oil build up on the end, then you are correct. The oil is seeping around the top of the rings near the newly seated head, and is blowing out the exhaust. It will take some time for the head to seat in, and the carbon to build up, then it will reduce the oil consumption. You might try running a straight weight oil in it for a while, I recommend a straight 20 or 30wt. You might also consider running an oil that is designed for higher mileage engines, such as Valvoline Maxlife. It's designed with additives for engines over 70,000 miles.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

  • Ryan Rogers
    Ryan Rogers Sep 01, 2008

    Sorry I didn't get back to you yesterday, I was out for the evening. Check the post you sent me through my askers.

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The fuel pump injector needs adjustment.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

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Fig. 2: Make sure injectors rotate freely in cylinder head 84245033.gif
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