I have got a problem with my air conditoning.I did remove the compressor and the new one works .But when i start the air conditioning ,it works for few seconds ,the green ligth is stable and after the gren light is flashing and there is no more cold air. I think there is an electrical problem .
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Re: air conditioning problem
In most instances when you open an a/c system you must also make sure that it's not only charged properly, but you also have to replace the dryer. moisture in an a/c system is the enemy and when you open the system. the moisture get's in there and plugs the dryer causing a blockage. hence why it only works for a few minutes.
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have dealership discharge airconditioning system.you need to disconnect refrigerant lines going to the AC compressor you probably need refrigerant lines disconnect tools to remove disconnect refrigerant lines.you need to remove drive belt.and safely raise support vechicle remove tire or wheel work from under vechicle you have to loosen AC COMPRESSOR bolts then remove AC COMPRESSOR.be sure pour old refrigerant in a measuring cup so you can pour same amount new oil in the new compressor.add couple ounces if old AC COMPRESSOR dry.
By the compressor clutch I assume you mean the a/c clutch if so read on:
The air-conditioning system in your Ford is basically a circulation loop through which refrigerant is pumped by a compressor. The refrigerant is a combination of gas and liquid that becomes very cold as it is compressed and then expanded. The chilled gas then flows from the compressor into an evaporator coil. The cold refrigerant now inside the coil has air blowing across the fins and tubes of the coil, thereby cooling the air, which is transferred into the car. By following the procedures below, you can remove and replace the A/C compressor clutch in your Ford vehicle at minimal cost.
Have the air-conditioning system discharged or evacuated of refrigerant by certified personnel at a dealer service department or automotive air-conditioning repair facility.
Raise the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable terminal from the battery using a box-end wrench.
Disconnect the electrical plug-in connector from the compressor clutch by hand.
Remove the drive serpentine belt from the compressor clutch pulley by taking the tension from the pulley using a breaker bar and compressing the torsion spring tensioner.
Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the compressor with the box-end wrenches. Plug the open fittings to prevent the accidental entry of dirt and moisture; quarter-inch rubber stoppers are a good fit for these connections.
Loosen the mounting bolts with the box-end wrenches, and remove the bolts from the compressor clutch mounting bracket and lift the clutch out of the vehicle.
Pour out the refrigerant oil into a graduated container so you know how much new oil to add to the new compressor.
Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Always replace all O-rings with new ones that are specifically made for use with the new R-134a refrigerant. Lubricate the new O-rings with R-134a-compatible refrigerant oil.
Evacuate and recharge the system with the proper amount of R-134a refrigerant by the same certified mechanic that discharged the unit before you replaced clutch. Have the mechanic start the engine and let it run for a few minutes; this will let the system stabilize and the compressor cycle on and off.
It seems the automatic idling lifter (sensor) once you switch on the a AC system has failed and thus at low idling the Ac compressor clutch gives in stopping the compressor to spin.
You have to check tht system out.
Hope this helps!
It appears that your air conditioning system is low on refrigerant. Anytime you have higher RPM's then the air conditoning compressor turns faster and if the A/C system is low on refrigerant, then there is not enough refrigerant for the compressor to pump and so it cycles itself off and you start getting warmer air out of the vents. When the vehicle is idling & the A/C is on, open the hood and look & listen if the A/C compressor is cycling off & on by itself. If it is, then you are definitely low on refrigerant. If it is not cycling, you can also check to see if the refrigerant is low by checking the outlet tube of the evaporator. The evaporator is located under the hood on the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle. It is usually a black plastic box that is bolted to the firewall. With the vehicle idling & A/C on, use your fingers to touch the aluminum tube (about 3/4 inch in diameter) coming out of the top of the evaporator case. If it is not cold, you are low on refrigerant. Hope this helps.
I don't know what relay switch you are speaking of, but the is a low pressure cutout switch on the receiver/dryer. (Small black tank in passenger rear of engine compartment). It cycles the compressor on and off with changes in the low pressure side of the system. If you have to move anything to get it working, chances are you have a bad wire or connecter going to the switch. Look for looseness in the wire or burned spots near the contacts. Again, I am not sure of the switch you are talking about. What is it's location?
there could be a number of reasons for the a/c failure. do this first start the vehicle and turn the a/c on full blast look to see if the a/c clutch on the compressor is spinning. it is the center part and not just the pully. keep me posted of the result