Question about 1994 Ford Mustang

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Drag racing 94 cobra, how much HP can ford 8.8 31 spline diff. take?

Hi, I currently have a 500hp/550ft lbs 393W w/stock 5speed. Have stock 8.8 rear with stock 28 spline axles. I have run a 11.90 at 125mph (1.70 60 ft.) a half dozen times. So my ? is if I upgrade to the ford 8.8 traction-loc with 31 spline axles is it much stronger or do I need an aftermarket diff. like an auburn pro, powertrax, etc.?

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  • james makoutz
    james makoutz Mar 13, 2009

    Thanks. I bought a set of moser 31 spline axles and a motorsport diff., the same one they put in the GT500. I figure if they put it in a 500+ hp 3900lbs car it will work for me. Haven't installed yet, waiting for warmer weather. I'm in Wis. and it's currently 17*! Happy and safe racing!!



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I would recommend a detroit true trac- it will hold a lot of power and you dont have to worry about tearing it up

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

  • Kristie steiger Mar 13, 2009

    Great! Good luck and hope for some good #'s!



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Can l remove front drive shaft and diff on my 94 aerostar and drive on rear drive only

just remove the front drive shaft at the flange bolts
if it is an all wheel drive vehicle engage the 4wd to lock up the center diff

Nov 13, 2017 | Ford Aerostar Cars & Trucks


Turbo Charging a 91-94 Nissan 240SX

This is not really a simple job....until you find out that you can have a fun and high HP, high performance boosted engine WITHOUT making it hard OR expensive.
First thing I highly reccomend, is do an engine rebuild AND break it in first. Tell your machinist you plan on adding a turbo and ask them to use the lower compression pistons. A turbo adds a lot of pressure, even at low boost. Lower compression will help daily drivability. Wheather you boost 6-8lbs or 25-30lbs.
Another thing no one ever says is BE SURE and run a "one step" colder spark plug!! Gap it at .027-.030 to keep from blowing out the spark. A plug the book calls for will detonate and blow the engine the first time you boost it!!
You'll read on the internet how there are those pushing 30lbs of boost and 500hp!! Well, God love 'em, THAT's where one spends a LOT of money on things like forged pistons, forged rods, a lot of "upgrades" to make it do that without blowing up.
There are turbo kits out there that allows one to run up to 10 lbs of boost and still have a daily driveabled car that's just a blast to drive!!
10lbs of boost in a stock rebuilt KA24DE, which is the factory engine in the 240SX, will produce around 260whp. That "W" means at the wheels. So your producing over 300hp at the crank.
The drive train on your factory 240SX will easily handle up to 400hp so don't worry about breaking the trans or rear end. Although a stage 4 pressure plate will be needed to keep the clutch from slipping. You'll be around 300lbft of torque onced turboed.
One more upgrade I highly recommend is a 255lh fuel pump to keep up with the fuel pressure. About $100.00 and worth it even if you don't ever add a turbo. Plenty of fuel pressure saves one from detonating and burning pistons....boosted or not. Again, that's just my opinion. Take it or leave it. lol.
The external wastegate is the secret to an "inexpensive but fun" kit. Look for a kit that includes a 6-8lb boost waste gate. This will save you from having to upgrade fuel injectors, ECU, Mass Airflow Sensor, ect. The ECU alone will cost anywhere from $300.00 to over $600.00. The MAF will be around $100.00, so you see what I mean.
Above 10 lbs and those things will become nessasary. If that's what ya want go for it... but get ready to be working and tuning on a daily basis. Always tinkering to keep it running.
Now the first thing is the kit. CX Racing has, IMO, the best one. It will come with every thing needed under the hood. Exhaust manifold, compressor, intercooler, piping, clamps, gaskets and couplers all in one order. Very convienant. No that's NOT a commercial. Check out EBay, Amazon, where ever you shop. One of these kits will cost as little as $650.00 to $900.00. The "name brands" will run up to $5,000.00!! That's crazy, if ya ask me.
The T3 T4 hybrid turbo is, IMO, the best one to go with. It allows you to run the small boost smoothly but also allows you to go balistic with the higher boost if you decide to do so. Up to 35lbs.
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you can do this install. It's not hard, and the reward of horse power is just awesome.
Do your research, read all you can on forced induction. Read the 500hp guys with a grain of salt. You can do that later if you want, but I'd start small and build up, if I had it to do over.
Hope this helps. Go after it. It's a GREAT father son/daughter project. YOU CAN DO THIS!!

on Dec 01, 2009 | Nissan 240SX Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Will my 68 mustang 6cyl body be strong enough for a V8? I already upgraded the suspension to the V8 specs.

yeah you should be good cause there strong sturdy cars but it should bolt straight in what motor are you planning to put in it just dont forget to change the diff otherwise you will snap the axles so put a V8 diff in it

Mar 05, 2015 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What do i torque the dif. caps to on my 1991 f150 rearend

need to know the make and size of the diff
go google -type in and all the torque settings are listed for each make and size of diff
example an AAM 9.25" diff is 63ft lbs
a AAm 10.5" is 120 ft lbs
ford 9" is (OEM) is 60ft lbs
ford 10.25" is 80ft lbs
the crawlpedia .com is comprehensive in the torque settings

Feb 14, 2015 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

1999 mustang base v6 noisy rear above 50 mph

check the "u" joints and check that the drive shaft flanges have been properly fitted to the pinion flange or that the "u"joints have been properly fitted into the pinion "ears " of the pinion.. Check that the correct grade of oil was used in the diff and it has the correct amount. New out of the factory diff should not be noisy but if you have a new rebuilt diff then it is possible that the gear mesh is not correct or used gears were used where the best mesh was obtained.

May 05, 2014 | 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra

1 Answer

How do I get the rear drums off a 2000 Ford focus. I removed the spindle nut,

2000 Ford Focus Drum Removal ProcedureIf removing the drum to service the rear brakes: (note, do not remove hub retaining nut for this procedure)
1. Raise and support vehicle
2. Release the parking brake
3. Remove wheel and tire
4. Disconnect wheel speed sensor wiring harness from wheel knuckle and floor panel.
5. Remove 4 wheel spindle attaching bolts, then the wheel hub and drum assembly from vehicle.
6. Reverse procedure to install noting the following:
a. Torque wheel spindle retaining nut to 49 ft. lbs.
b. Torque wheel/tire assembly to 94 ft. lbs.
2000 Ford Focus Drum Replacement ProcedureIf replacing the drum and wheel bearing assembly:
1. Raise and support vehicle
2. Release the parking brake
3. Remove wheel and tire
4. Remove center dust cap.
5. Remove hub retaining nut.
6. Remove drum and hub assembly. Ensure wheel speed sensor ring is not damaged when removing drum/hub (if equipped).
7. Reverse procedure to install noting the following:
a. Inspect and clean wheel speed sensor ring if equipped.
b. When tightening hub retaining nut, rotate the hub assembly in counterclockwise direction.
c. Torque hub retaining nut to 173 ft. lbs.
d. Torque wheel/tire assembly to 94 ft. lbs.
e. Adjust parking brakes as necessary.

Jul 05, 2011 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

How to remove hub assembly bearing

I wasn't sure if you were asking about the front, rear wheel or other assembly.
The most common problem is the front wheel bearing:
I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. All the Ford Escapes are the same thru 2010. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.

You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.

Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove rotor.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Snap ring.
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.

...or you can take it to the dealer.

Good luck.
Here are some pictures that may help illustrate the difficulty:

Knuckle assy with lower control arm.

Mar 27, 2011 | 2005 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Procedure for replacing rear whl brgs on a 2003 escape awd

4-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake shoes
    • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
    • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
    • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
    • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
    • Lower shock absorber nut
    • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
    • Upper ball joint
    • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
    • Steering knuckle cam
    • Steering knuckle
    • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:
    • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
    • Snapring to the knuckle
    • Wheel hub
    • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
    • Coil spring
    • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
    • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
    • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
    • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
    • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
    • Brake shoes
    • Rear wheel
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
  3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.

2-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake drum
    • Wheel hub nut
    • Wheel hub
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Snapring
    • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge 06017-esca-g93.gif

      Rear hub removal

      Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing

      Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd

      Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd

To install:
Install or connect the following:

  • Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  • Snapring
  • Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  • Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  • Brake drum
  • Rear wheel
  • Negative battery cable

    Rear wheel bearing installation
    hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have

Jan 16, 2011 | Ford Escape Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Putting a 302 in a 99 mustang

You'll need the K-member from a 94'-95' v6 or GT, along with the correct motor mounts. once you have that it should drop right in. But there are many more parts you'll need to make it work like a 5.0 tranny, exhaust, wiring, pcm, radiator, and maybe more. Look in the Ford Racing catalog and drop a 4.6L Cobra motor in there. A lot fewer parts to buy. Also if your state has car inspections the 5.0 is not OBDII, and should only be attempted if its going to be a "race only" car.

Jan 08, 2010 | 1999 Ford Mustang Cobra

1 Answer

I have ford f150 5.0 1990 truck put in 94 engine

Sounds like its Not Advancing this is Electronic and if you mix match parts this way these are the problems you run into sir I can not Advise you on a Repair or fix As it is not All STOCK FACTORY EQUIPMENT So Sorry

Jan 05, 2009 | 1990 Ford F150

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