Question about 2002 Mazda MPV

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Brake booster is weak

Mechanic found out that the air pump - booster doesn't function well. The problem is that new one costs 1500Slovak crowns which is 500eur it's too much. In US there is a company that sells the booster for $110 that's a big difference BUT it doesn't ship to Europe. Where can I get the brake booster for Mayda MPV 2.0 turbo diesel 2002??? Replace it Or could it be fixed?

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Try ebay

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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1 Answer

Oil in brake booster


The vacuum is created via a mechanical pump driven from the cam, Or a separate, electrical pump.

The only liquid I have ever found in any servo (booster) is brake fluid from a leaking master cylinder.
If the vacuum is low/absent, due to a faulty cam driven vacuum pump, and crankcase pressure rises, along with a faulty one-way valve in the vacuum plumbing, it's possible the oil could be forced into the servo housing, and operating the brakes would help it happen as the servo could act as a pump itself and draw oil from the engine.

Found some diagrams:
http://www.jimellissaabparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=408206&ukey_make=1032&modelYear=1999&ukey_model=14675

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Cars/SAAB/41962012/2009-9-5-Aero-Wagon-2-3L-4-Cyl-16-Valve-Turbo/1019/Front-Brakes-Hydraulics/

What colour is the oil?

Nov 08, 2013 | 1999 Saab 9-5

1 Answer

Air hissing noise from brake pedal 2002 ml 320 mercedes


Mercedes MLs 98-05 have an issue with Brake Booster seal. I had numerous MLs with that issue. As long as you have good functioning brakes and your only concern is the hissing from under the pedal, then you have no issue with the actual booster.

If you go with any unsuspecting mechanic, they will recommend you to replace Booster and it will set you back about $1000. The solution in replacing a simple seal that goes bad and starts leaking air back into the cabin under the dash, thus causing the hiss..

Jan 29, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Toyota 4 runner brake booster noise


if you can see brake fluid around the booster then yes it is most definitely not right, but sometimes these can fail without any fluid noticable, the visible fluid could mean that the brake master cylinder is failing & this will have an adverse affect on the booster power & performance, check your brake master cylinder first as this is a much simpler & easier repair than the brake booster & can be done at home on a flat drive or or street even, a Haynes manual is invaluable for the home mechanic & i recommend you get one as soon as you can as this will help you diagnose the problems with your vehicle before going to a mechanic/garage, if it is the brake booster at fault then i suggest you go to your local scrapper/breakers yard armed with tools & the Haynes/Chilton's Manual (Depending on which side of the pond you are from) & remove the brake booster from a now deceased Toyota 4Runner & remove the brake booster & master cylinder in one should only cost you a few Quid or Bucks & replace the part once your vehicle is back at home, once the parts have been replaced the brake system will need to be bled so that there is no air in the brake lines, this can be easily done with two people at home, Jack up one corner, remove that wheel & then just crack off the bleed nipple of the brake line Putting a bit of clear hose over the nipple to catch the excess brake fluid in a jug etc & have a friend push down slowly on the pedal, when only fluid comes out with no air then the system is bled for that wheel, Check the level in the brake master cylinder & repeat the process for the other 3 corners/wheels Once done your brake pedal should fell firm & Not spongy, If you get a spongy feeling when braking after this then there is still air in the brake lines & the system needs to be bled again, of course if you have done it right then your brakes should feel firm underfoot. Please don't forget to rate me, regards, Paul.

Sep 21, 2012 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2005 dodge neon - revs high in park nuetral and tough to push break pedal down. mechanic doesn't know what it is. Anyone have this problem resolved before? Thanks


sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak. When you lose vacuum the brake booster doesn't operate right. You need to go too a different mechanic. Could be the idle selonoid staying open or even a bad brake booster or vacuum hose came off.

Jun 13, 2012 | 2005 Dodge Neon SXT

1 Answer

I replaced the master cylinder and brake pads and my brakes still dont work on my 1998 chrysler sebring


Have you tested your brake booster and your calipers?Your brake booster doesn't make any noise, and it doesn't use any electricity or gasoline, but it ensures that you can stop your car with only a light touch of the brake pedal. Things weren't always like that: before the invention of the vacuum brake booster, cars still stopped. It's just that you had to really stomp on the brake pedal. The modern brake booster is an ingenious device that operates using something that your engine generates whenever it's running: vacuum. The brake booster takes engine vacuum via a rubber hose that runs from the intake manifold, and the brake booster uses that vacuum to amplify the pressure you put on the pedal. A light application of the brakes is translated by the brake booster into significantly more pressure on the brake master cylinder, ensuring that your car stops quickly. So what happens to the brake booster if your car stalls, resulting in a loss of engine vacuum? Early designers realized that gas engines were hardly foolproof, so they designed a little check valve into the brake booster circuit. The brake booster stores enough vacuum to provide full boost for two or three pedal applications even after the engine dies. The check valve on the brake booster is what keeps that vacuum from leaking out. And speaking of leaks, that's the reason most brake booster units have to be replaced. As your brake booster ages, the rubber seals and diaphragms that hold the vacuum tend to wear out and crack. If the brake booster can't hold vacuum (despite the check valve's best efforts), its time is up and you'll need a new or remanufactured new brake booster.

Jun 14, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Breaks wont pump up no air in line.will pump up when car is not running.start it and hardly no pedal


SOUND LIKE POWER BRAKE BOOSTER FAILURE.CHECK TO SEE IF VACUUM GOING TO POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.IF NO YOU HAVE BROKEN OR DISCONNECTED VACUUM LINE TO BRAKE BOOSTER.IF POWER BRAKE BOOSTER GETTING VACUUM MORE LIKELY BRAKE BOOSTER HAS A LEAKING DIAPHRAM.

Dec 03, 2010 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

2 Answers

Brake pump new and the brakes still hit the floor


http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/detail.htm
Will tell you if you have any recalls.
I'm assuming, when you say brake pump, you mean new master cylinder.
Most of the time, when a brake feels "soft", it has pressure problems in the line.
It sounds like the power booster unit could be broken, or you could be leaking pressure at your wheels.
Also on a similar note, I once witnessed a very spongy brake brake, that would not become more "firm" with bleeding. The person working on it was very confused as to why, and upon further inspection, I discovered a small clamp, he had forgotten to take back off the line.

Jan 07, 2010 | 2003 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Brake boosters


you can tell if the brake booster is bad, rearly it goes bad, your master cyclinder usually go out before your brake booster will. It feel spoon-gy and while pressing down on the brake peddle holding it down you can feel the pressure bleed off with no resistance. If the brake booster is bad you have only ONE shot for braking each time; its very dangerous. Did you bleed the brake lines to release the the air out of the system when you replace the pad? whom ever did your brakes should know to bleed it. having air in the line can be dangerous as brake will not function and operates properly and can cause an accident. If you did bleed the brakes and your booster is fine then you have a master cylinder problems. master cylinder gives you a spoon-gy feel and when braking the peddle it tend to go to the floor and you have to let your foot up to build the pressure and applied the brake again to make it stop. Master Cyclinder use or rebuilt will cost you 30.00 bucks and new will be 58.00 bucks and they are easy to replace. Just make sure you have plenty of extra brake fluid to bleed all 4 brake line..I recommend you reused the brake fluid when bleeding the unit saving some money than wasting the fluid, glass jar is the best for capturing the bleed fluid with automotive smallest vacum hoses you can purchase at any auto discount store 58 cent a foot, which you only need 2 foot. good luck I hope that help some.

Jul 10, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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