Question about 2006 Kia Sedona
In general, if you have to ask "how to change a spark plug", it's probably better to let a professional handle it. If you do it yourself, don't forget to gap the plug.
Posted on Nov 14, 2008
Remove the headlight assembly. Just remove the 3 bolts with a 10 mm socket and pull it out so you can disconect the wire harness. After that pull the whole assembly out and unscrew the bulb cover. The bulb is held in with a spring clip.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Hope not too late to help. I have changed all plugs 2 times now myself. Mine is a 6 cylinder. The rear 3 plugs are impossible to remove without unbolting the intake manifold and other contraptions like the throttle/cruise control cable
and 4 inch air intake tube. If you have engine work experience, great!
If not, color code every disconnect then match up on the reinstall
including plug cables.
Here is where you might not know what to do. First, the gasket (Planum) is a reusable metal gasket. Their is no replacement at Kia (crazy but I asked everywhere in NC) so be sure to tighten each bolt on the intake alternating and to speck amount, a 12 foot socket 1/4 inch wrench is plenty of torque so don't overdo it. I believe 15 lbs of torque is correct but verify. If you like taking risks just tighten using your wrist only (not biceps mustle) as tight as you can using wrist only now! [Rent a torque wrench or buy for $10 - $20 if you don't own one].
Since your doing all this work, change all plug wires and only use Platinum or better plugs that last at least 60k miles of use. You wont be able to change back 3 wires later by the way so buy 3 OEM Kia wires (not the kit) to save money if you want. I mixed plugg types and mine ran just fine!!
Plan on 4 meticulous hours your first time. My 2nd time took 1.5 hrs with a short break.
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
The back 3 spark plugs are a pain to get to.
But I have 2 methods, which perhaps you can put 2 an 2 together to make it easier for yourself.
firstly make sure you buy new ignition leads because they can break when removing them from the spark plugs. The front (cylinders 1, 3, 5) are easy to get to with 3/8" drive sparl plug socket, an extension bar and ratchet. As for the back 3, put the vehicle up on stands at the front, grab the spark plug socket, a short extension bar and the rachet, crawl underneath the front of the car on your back and start swearing. 2 hands are required. First off, remove the plug leads by a small twist then pull. This is where the plug lead might break. Once the ignition leads are out of the way (yes, even though they seem to come up hard against the firewall - by manipulating them they can be removed), drop the plug socket down the hole onto the spark plug, feed the short extension bar into the hole and click it onto the socket, then feed the ratchet up to the extension bar (2 hands) and proceed to loosen/undo the spark plug. If you don't have the socket with the rubber piece in the end of it - to grip onto the plug, then you will need a thin magnet to drag them out with. Reverse the process for installation.
Now the second option is remove the inlet manifold, its an easy procedure, and no need to hoist the car, just remember once the inlet manifold is off, block the holes to prevent things from falling in.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
After removing the 'decorative' plastic engine cover, spark plugs 2, 4, and 6 are readily visible left to right across the front of the engine, each beneath a coil pack. You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the coils. Plugs 1,3, and 5 are a bit trickier. The easiest way, unfortunately, (and trust me, I've tried them all) is to remove the intake plenum with the throttle body attached. It's a bit time consuming, but if you keep track of where all the electrical connections go it isn't really that complicated. Like I said, just time consuming.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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