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No, this is a hydraulic clutch and the only adjustment may b on the pedal linkage for free travel to the master cylinder. It sounds as though you may have a bad clutch master cylinder or defective slave cylinder.
If this has the cable clutch then there should be an adjustment nut which is longer than the two nuts on each end. You can place a wrench on the smaller nut on one end and turn adjustment nut to change tension.
The only clutch adjustment you can make is peddle free play. There's an adjustable rod between the top of the peddle and the clutch master cylinder: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/clutch/2checkand.pdf
The only adjustment you have is pedal free play. The rod attached to the end of the clutch peddle has a threaded adjustment and a stop nut to hold it in place. Free play should be about 1/2" measured at the pedal.
The linkage cable before the trans should have an adjustment nut on it.
This controls the fork assembly movement. adjust the linkage to remove
the pedal free play and this will also tighten the clutch.
To determine which type of clutch you have, servo hydraulic or cable.
Look down past the engine bell housing and determine the existance of a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder.(a piece of casting with a rod facing towards the rear of the vehicle pocket into a bracket protruding out of the gearbox bell housing. As well as a pipe and bleed nipple to be crude)
(which I believe you have).The hydraulic fluid for this unit is sourced from the brake master cylinder reservoir via a sneaky pipe partially obscured to the clutch master cylinder on the internal firewall.If you have no clutch slave cylinder near the bell housing there would be an obvious bounden cable running from the firewall down to the outer of which will be stopped at a bracket hanging off the engine.The inner will continue to a bracket protruding from the gearbox bell housing.
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