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Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.
Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake CaliperDo not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching NutNut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering KnuckleNote: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from TransaxleWhen removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
Jack up car use jack stands remove wheel. Get a 3/4 breaker bar and a socket to fit nut on front wheel remove cotter pin remove nut. Loosen nut before jacking up Undo nut on lower ball joint and tie rod. Push down on tie rod hit housing with big hammer it should come right off. Now pry down on the frame holding ball joint and hit the housing with a big hammer it should break loose if it doesn't rent a tool at auto parts store. Pull strut assembly away from axle and pull axle out. When you put new one in push till you here it snap in.
Take off the wheels. Make sure that the car is supported safely whith blocks or stands.
Put a wheel nut back on to hold the discs in place.
Undo the two bolts holding the calipers to the axle, lift of the calipers. Do not take off the hoses. Check the discs for wear, they may need resurfacing.Spread the calipers, you can buy a tool for that or you can use a clamp.
remove the pads and fit the new ones. Reverse the proceedures.
Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead. Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel. Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10 Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or flexible hose.
Pry off the hub grease cap Remove and discard cotter pin pull off castellated nut retainer Remove the hub nut and bearing washer. Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.
Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard. remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups. Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate. Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft. Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub. Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup. Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease. Wash the hub assembly thoroughly. Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly. Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation. Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle. Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut. It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.
Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float. .001-.003" As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions. Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling. Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.
Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification operation of the braking system verified. Reassemble wheel
These are the steps you need to follow for this procedure if you have the proper tools.
Remove front caliper assembly and rotor from the steering knuckle as outlined under "Caliper, Replace" in the "Disc Brake" unit repair section.
Remove hub and bearing to stub axle retaining nut.
Disconnect hub bolts then remove hub and bearing assembly from steering knuckle by sliding it straight off end of stub axle. If metal seal on hub and bearing assembly is seized to steering knuckle and becomes dislodged on hub and bearing assembly during removal, or when removing hub and bearing, the finger disc on hub becomes damaged, hub and bearing assembly must be replaced.
If hub and bearing will not slide out of knuckle, insert a prybar between hub and steering knuckle and gently pry hub and bearing from knuckle.
Tighten stub shaft nut, lower vehicle and with brakes applied, torque stub shaft nut to 70 - 90 ft. lbs.
jack up car, remove the road wheels, at the rear of the caliper you will have 2 or 3 bolts holding the caliper onto the stub axle, remove the bolts and remove the caliper, remove the outer pad, leave the inner pad in place and use a "G" clamp to compress the brake piston until it has bottomed, if this is not done the new pads will not fit back over the rotor as the piston is too far out and the new pads are thicker than the old ones.
place the new pads in the caliper and fit over the rotor, replace the 2 or 3 bolts that hold the caliper in place, replace the road wheel, tighten the nuts and lower the car to the ground, pump the brake pedal to see if you have brakes, if you do have brakes take it for a test drive away from any traffic if possible
the rear bearing is pressed into the hub so take the hubs off and take to a engineering shop to have the new one pressed in ,now the front ones are similar in as much as they need pressing in and out ,DO NOT TRY TO DO IT WITH A BIG HAMMER ,its dangerous ,remove the wheel trim and slacken the big nut in the middle ,think its a 32mm then jack vehicle up remove the wheel ,undo the brake caliper by the 2 bolts that hold it to the stub axle ,slacken bolt on track rod end but do not remove fully and then wack the end of the stub axle where the track rod end goes through .One good wack with a 1kg hammer will do it on the end of the steering /stub axle shaft without damaging anything because you have left the nut on loose.then remove the bottom track control arm pinch bolt it has a star head and a 17 mm nut on the other end ,use a lengh of scaffold pole or a big crow bar to pull the track control arm down so the ball joint come apart ,take the stub axle off and in the back is a big circlip but leave it alone and just take it to the engineering shop ,its very dangerous to try to remove the bearing with a big hammer and drift because it can and will chip and hit you in the face trust me on this