Front-end makes a low rattle noise when hitting rough spots
I mistakenly took it to a car-x service center and they showed me I had some excess play on the right side front wheel when truck raised on hoist.
although this didn't seem to me the cause I thought with 84,000 miles it was probably some thing the should be done anyway. [tie rod end] this of couse was not the cause so her I am the sound comes from both front sides and sounds more like something is loose or worn, even though the mechanic said he could find nothing loose.
Re: front-end makes a low rattle noise when hitting rough...
I have a 2002 bravada that is also doing the same thing, most likely if you have 84000 miles on it you probably need to change out the front struts and rear shocks, not cheap to do. I haven't done them to mine yet due to oil leaking out the front seal where the axle assembly goes into the oilpan is leaking and don't know how much that will be to have it fixed. May not be worth doing. But the most likely cause of your problem is the struts. I had it quoted one time and it was around 500-600 just to have the fronts done, so i figured I'd just do it myself. doing it yourself will cost around 350 for 2 struts and 2 rear shocks from oreillys.
Re: front-end makes a low rattle noise when hitting rough...
I have experienced the same rattle on a 2002 Bravada since about 50,000 miles. I have had tie rods replaced. Later, I had tires rotated at a tire/maintenance shop and they showed me a slight amount of movement in the ball joints. They wanted to change them. I took it to a dealership. They checked the ball joints and said some play is normal but didn't recommend changing them. I am wondering if the noise is in the struts. It occurs on a slightly rough roads and even backing out of a driveway when the shocks/struts are working rapidly.
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IS it constant? IF it does not vary when you hit rough spots in the road then it could be a dust cover on the engine or exhaust. If it makes the noise when it is not moving it might be something wrong in the engine. If you hit bumps and hear it, it is the suspension.
Ensure the wheel nuts and Axle nuts are properly torqued to the specification. Lift up the front wheels, place supports under the car and do the following:
- Sit if front of right wheel, slightly move it right and left and feel any abnormal noise if coming out of it. If click-click or Tuck-Tuck sound is observed it could be due to the excessive play in the tie rod end, rack end, ball joint wheel bearing or U joint. Next hold the Tire with your one hand at the top and with other hand at the bottom. Shake the Tire inside out and feel any noise or play. If play is observed, it could be the worn out ball joint or the wheel bearing. Now hit the Tire at the top with rubber hammer and observe any rattling noise coming from near the center of the wheel. If you could listen to the extra noise it could be due to the dried up caliper pins. Grease the pins with graphite grease. If all is found fine, similarly check the left wheel and repair as necessary.
Try rotating your tires from front to back. It may help with the noise. Get a front-end alignment which can also help with the noise by correcting a "rub" sound that originates from the 2 front tires fighting each other for control.
The place which replaced your bearings is probably correct. When you get bad bearings they do not always fail evenly across the 360 degree turning of the bearing race. If you imagine a donut with a flat spot representing your bearing- as the donut spins with the flat spot cause by a disintegrating roller, the tire is bolted to the donut. The tire is going to hit the pavement differently every rotation because of the play in the bearing is at that same spot.
This play will create small cups in the tire shape at the low spot transmitted by the bearing. When you replaced the bearing , the marks in your tire tread remained. These edges need to be worn off. Or some tire stores can Shave a tire, in an attempt to make it round again.
If you have a normal size spare, you can put the spare on the left front side of your vehicle and see if the noise goes away. If the rims are different on the spare, you can have everything remounted and pay for rebalancing and put the unused spare as a front tire. Then you know the spare is at least good as a spare, but noisy.
Need to check the entire front end at a place like Sears or your dealership to determine what parts have excessive play in them. Sears doesn't usually charge for this service, in hopes that you would have them work on the car in the future.
Sometimes, the cv joints are worn and cause a rattle or clicking on turns. Also, the bushings for the lower control arms sometimes wear out causing a rattle or other noise that can be disconcerting.
When the strut bushings were replaced, were the other parts in the front end checked out?
your on the spot on both.
make sure the shock is tight on both end and have a rubber bushing bewteen the car fram and the shock. then try the shock first. take a look at spring while you have it out.
change the belt on the compressor and make sure the pulley is square on the compressor, and the any other pulley the belt goes.
It's a loose steering column. Remove the black plastic shield under the steering wheel. Lossen the bolt that holds the two shafts together, slide them together as far as they'll go, and re-tighten the bolt. It's that simple... to stop that annoying rattle.