Cheers will have a look in the morning, could it be a problem with the boost controller its self? when i take it out it runs 7 psi perfectly and when i put it back in and run 7 psi it runs like a sour lemon? could i have set it up wrong? how do i put a picture up to show you? cheers mate
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put on jack stands, remove tire, remove brake caliper and bracket, detach outer tie rod end, remove axle bolt, remove hub bolts from strut, tape on axle with hammer to remove it from hub, loosen lower ball joint bolt, use fork tool to brake joint loose, remove hub and bearing, remove stabilizer links, remove bolts on lower control arm, replace every thing in reverse
We have two Nissan 200sx's, a 1995 manual and a 1996 auto. Both had this problem and both turned out to be the same thing. The "idle air control valve." It was most noticeable if you ran the air conditioner and then came up to a red light. You would have to keep pushing on the brake and race the engine a little to keep it from shutting off. Replaced that part and both cars have never had the problem again.
It's the diode block. The switch is fine, but the diode block controls the speeds. It's about a $20 part and located under the dash next to the fan on the passenger side. It's held in with two screws and shouldn't take you more than 20 minutes to replace.
That vehicle never came with a turbo as an option. Therefore adding a turbo would be custom work. You may find someone online who has documented their modification process. If you purchase an aftermarket turbo system it will come with a manual. Short of that such a document does not exist.
BACK IN 1984 NISSAN HAD THE ELECTRONIC IGNITION WITH AIR GAP ADJUSTMENT.YOU ADJUST AIR GAP IN THE DISTRIBUTOR BY LOOSENING THE STATOR MOUNTING SCREWS .MOVE THE STATOR UNTIL PROPER GAP IS ACHIEVED.THIS COULD BE NO SPARK CONDITIONS.