I keep blowing brakelines. Now the threads are stripped ut on the ABS Motor. I think I blew the flexline that goes into the the front of the ABS unit. I have no brake pressure at all when I brake.

If the brake system is leaking DO NOT DRIVE IT!
I'm assuming your vehicle is reasonably new, (less than 20 years old). This could turn out to be an expensive fix.
Most modern vehicles, (1990's onwards), Use a big square block with other thing bolted to it. This is an ABS pump. It controls the supply of brake fluid for the entire braking system including the Antilock brakes, the Traction Control System and the Stability Control system. If you've threaded a hole you'll probably need to replace the pump. If any of the metal from the stripped thread gets into the pump It will Not be good news. These pumps can be anything from £100 used to £800 new depending on what your vehicle is.

The threading could be stripped, not enough thread to keep the the spark plug in under pressure.
I heli coil can be installed or thread repair

Your local part store should carry a thread repair kit as it it quite common. Make sure you protect from getting metal shavings inside of the cylinder.

Too much crankcase pressure for some reason? I've seen a melted piston cause so much crankcase pressure, it blew the pcv valve out of the valve cover and sprayed oil all over the engine compartment.

Is your oil cap threaded? If it is threaded, I don't think I've seen one of them blow off? Also, check crankcase ventilation system, pcv where applicable. Do you have a lot of blow-by from crankcase? I don't know your year--make--model or engine size?

i would think you will need to replace the wiper linkage from moter as sounds likely the threads have been stripped or worst case wiper motor as well

If the fuse is blowing out it means you have a short cirtuit.possible causes the Light socket, pedal sensor or somewhere along the wiring harness Aires might na chewed you and touching each other

Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.

Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.

The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.

The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.

The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)

You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.

You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.

Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.

I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.

I have not heard of an ABS causing these problems. Usually, a loss of pressure is a hole in a brakeline or a bad master cylinder.

The first brakelines to leak on my 1988 Bill Blass where those going under the engine. Check in the frame where the lines are routed from the ABS to the front brakes.

I use a Vacuum Handpump Bleeder. As long as there is fluid in the Master, you should eliminate the air. If you have a leak when you draw down each wheel you may hear a whistling, deflating ballonlike sound of the air draw. My handpump has a gauge which will show a pressure drop.

Or you can go the other direction and disconnect the ABS lines to the wheels. When you draw the vacuum from the closed Calipers, there should be little air in the lines. However, a hole in the line will continue to drop the draw from that particular wheel Caliper. This would prove you have an opening in the line.

you have got 4 abs sensors, one for every wheel. they are behind the brakes, if you remove the wheel you will see the brakeline (rubber hose) and a cable wich goes to the sensor

I would make sure you have the correct bulb for starters. Check the wiring, and make sure that the insulation is not stripped in any place. (on both sides of the vehicle) It is pulling too much current, so you have a short in either the wiring, or an incorrect bulb(s) in the sockets.