So the copper coil "thingy"(LOL) is my alternator?
1). To make sure I'm clear. The alternator is the "doo-hickey" with the copper coil "thingy"? (LOL)
2).I read your steps to listen for mystery sound. I am going to read them again later, take a look under the hood. Then sleep on it as I work the details out.
3). I don't have long hair at the moment. But have had it most of my life. BUT............from the outside I appear to be a little clumsy/off depth perception-ish. The opposite is true when dealing with life, limb and death, as a possible result from a "simple" mistake.
I had a job at AlliedSignal (Garrett). We made propulsion and auxiliary airplane engines. I started out in the paint department and ended up in the machine shop installing and inserting rings, seals, inserts. With 900* ovens heating up one part. Liquid hydrogen in another container. The plating department alone would be a great movie set with it's vats of boiling chemicals from methyl ethyl ketone to some gooey stuff that would peel your skin off. Pressure test, metal spray, tumble, shot peen, etc.
Every week that I was there, there was a safety meeting of some sort. I've seen some of the most amazing videos and accidents. (one was about a guy who was cleaning his machine, with the "lock down" "tag out" procedure. Apparently the new guy coming on to his shift was not aware.(I think "not doing it at end of shift" should be one of the safety steps) The guy flips the on switch. The other guy, slices his hand up the middle all the way up in half to his wrist. THEN, when he was showing the insurance and SAFETY inspectors, what happened.............................it happened to his other hand.
While I was still working there a guy lost his face and lived. Because he wasn't "careful". (like it's a girl thing)
I just want you to know that I will be very careful. I have some pretty good safety experience, and practice. I stay a little nervous the whole time I do it. So I'm always aware of where I am.
4).I haven't looked up BBB, but I have googled it and all the sub tittles were "Midas scam", "Midas scam" etc. I really wish I did that before..........live and learn.
I'll get back with you to let you know I didn't loose an ear, because I read the steps wrong.(LOL)
Thanks again, Kirsten
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: so the copper coil "thingy"(LOL) is my alternator?
Yup, the doo-hickey, thing-a-ma-jig, w/ copper coil in it is the alternator. I went into too big an explanation about alternator/generator. They are really the same thing. Yoww, quite the grotesque creepy on the job accident stories! Show it to the new employees and they run screaming out the door never to be seen again! If someone comes knockin' at my door w/ a 2foot broomstick handle stuck in the side of their head, I'll who it is (from the sound of the diesel engine, vw sound, thick cards in bicycle spokes, as a 97 chey cavalier pulls in the driveway.) curt
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
does changed mean, used, new or pro rebuilts (cardone?)? the FSM is clear on this, some suz, engines, the distributor has a VR sensors. if the gap is set wrong or left loose, bingo. death. if its a hall sensor used on most after 1991 in USA, then its bad bearings on the dizzy, not posting photos so the reader can see ACTUAL. damage unlimited only eyes on can tell what happened. fixing cars is a hands on thing and eyes on and skills. to ask for skill , for sure , here, photos are the only chance. there are many metro forums why not use the real thing.? bad distrib, dizzy bad rotor bad bearings sensor gap wrong. sensor loose. what does copper,mean , you never side what item ejected its cooper,? the center of the sensor exploded, the rotor cut it? the jumper wires got loose? what?
have your alternator checked to make sure the charge is being supplied back to the battery , have the vehicle OBD checked for what codes it happens to be listing, some places will do this for free so shop around, once you get the codes if you post them here , people will help you understand what they mean , and possible solutions for clearing them, that is the easiest way of correcting your questions
Hello, its your Alternator or Alternator wiring and you still may have a problem with the #1 cylinder. It depends on whether you have a Code 301 or Code 351, but wait until the Alternator problem is fixed. You should go to Autozone or Oreillys for a free scan. Some other parts stores may also do this free for you.
One of my personal vehicles had the same problem. Speedometer showing speeds up to 60mph at idle, odometer racking up miles while the car was stopped, etc. My Alternator was shorting out inside the case and the electricity from it scrambled the gauges.
Until you said, "also seems to be draining the battery", the coil on #1 plug would not do that, otherwise you could blame the coil for scrambling the gauges. You must have either a bad wire from the Alternator or the Diodes inside the Alternator are bad. It is possible if the #1 coil is shorting, it may be the reason the Diodes overloaded.
If the Alternator tests bad on the vehicle, have it tested off the vehicle on a bench, the Autoparts stores I mentioned have the capability to do this for you. When you buy a new Alternator, have it bench tested before your walk out the store.
If you can reach the #1 coil, the top prong to the bottom connector should have 10,000Ohms resistance. Replace it should the reading be different. Take it with you to the Autoparts store for testing.
You have learned a valuable lesson! Only do 1 wire at a time! Hey, I've messed this up several times, I didn't learn from it!
1 2 3 4 1 standing in front of 4 this is where the wires plug in to the coil pack, also viewed vehicle, this is how 2standing in front of vehicle, facing engine the cylinders are numbered. 3 (facing engine) Please rate this, thanks, good luck, let me know if you need further help.Curt
Do u have the carbureted or fuel injected model? (both were available that year) The carb. model has a separate voltage regulator which is mounted on the right front shock tower. The fuel injected model is inside the alternator, under the end cover. Have the alt. tested before u purchase a new one to make sure that's the problem. Most parts stores will check it for free. Be sure to disconnect the neg. battery cable before u start to remove it. Let me know how u make out. Curt
Hmmmm, from what u say, sounds like everything is ok, but,Bad battery can run lights, radio, but trying to start, will make clicking noise. U jumped it to start, and it did, another sign of bad battery. How are the connections at battery? Tight and clean? No corrosion? Check wire to starter also to make sure it's ok. If all connections are clean and tight, I would recommend removing the battery, take to parts store for free check to see condition of battery (low charge, or if it's shot). If u jump start it, u can also have them check the alternator too (free). U indicate dash gauge @ 14, that should be good. Battery usually has a date 'thingy' on it that u peel off #'s to indicate when battery was purchased, does yours have the 'thingy?'
Is it getting spark? remove one spark plug wire and put a spark plug in it, hold the body of the plug against an unpainted metal part of the engine or body with an insulated tool (like a plastic handled screwdriver) and get someone to wind the engine over. You should see spark at the plug. If not, check to see if the igniter module is switching the coil correctly (might want to search on the net for this procedure, too hard to explain here). Probly best to just replace the igniter module anyway with the age of the vehicle.
Could be wiring. Wires go to the battery and some go from the battery to other components (voltage regulator, etc). Make sure all wires are clean and fastened tightly. It could also be the voltage regulator, the coil, etc....Auto Zone might be able to run a simple diagnostic (though not a thorough one).
Check the battery cables. Not just the ends but look down the wires where the insulation starts. You should see clean bright copper on the copper one. If it looks dirty between wires, you need new cables.
Other possibilities are dirty fuel or air filters. Fuel filters can be temporarily cleared out manually, which should fix the problem unless it's really gunked up.
Could be the distributor, its cap or wiring. My brother in law says have someone try to start the car at night. Lift the hood first, in the dark. If you see sparks, then some wiring is bad and needs replaced.
Could be the alternator, but your battery would keep running down so assume it's not.
Other possibility is the ignition switch. Not easy to fix you need a professional. Does jiggling the key help?