For about a month the engine has taken a little more revolutions to get started. Now I have to give it gas, and when it's cold it stalls out. After it's warm I get a rough/rolling idle between 400-600rpm. Clogged fuel filter? Spark plugs?
Idle air control sensor is the problem. even if the check engine light is not on...it wont go on with this issue if it is out of degree as theses sensors are adjustable and can be retarted or advanced...its on the throttle body loosen the 2 phillips head screws and play with the timing of sensor to make it idle properly...or if you have guages it calls for 10degree ****** at idle.
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Do you smell gasoline fuel ?? When there's too much fuel, it saturates the spark plugs, preventing ignition. Let it sit for an hour to let spark plugs dry, then it starts OK later. Next time, turn starter without giving any throttle or very small throttle as engine turns. Myself, when my 2006 Dodge Plymouth minivan (sitting in storage) needs to start, I squirt (half second) starting fluid into air filter, close the air filter housing to trap flammable gas from starting fluid, then turn the engine without pressing on throttle. When the engine starts is when I give it a little throttle to bring up the RPM to 2,000 until it idles on its own without stalling from cold engine.
While the engine is cold, try starting it and giving a little gas while you start it. If it starts, release your foot and see if it keeps running. If it stalls out, start it again (by giving a little gas again) and then keep your foot on the gas slightly to keep it from going to it's normal idle. Once the engine is warmed up, let off the gas and see if it stays running again. If it does then you need to clean/reaplace the IAC valve that is on the throttle body.
If you can, remove it and clean it out with carb cleaner (like B-12) and an old toothbrush. It could save you some money from having to replace it.
No to both questions. The idle valve is only for idle control, letting in more or less air as idle conditions warrant, to keep engine at proper idle RPM. The old choke would reduce air supply on a cold engine to allow starting with a richer gas mixture. That function is taken over by the computer in injected cars by allowing longer injector pulses to give richer mixtures in cold engines. Once warm, the 02 sensor controls fuel trim through the computer. By "accelerating itself", do you mean your idle is higher now that it's colder outside? I suppose it's possible if the idle valve is out of calibration, it might cause that. It is computer controlled, so proper diagnosis of the idle control valve requires a multimeter. The throttle position sensor should also be looked at for a high idle. Good luck.
I would run the fuel pump for a little while with the fuel line disconnected from the engine into a gas can . Although you might have changed everything you might still have residual water in lines or motor. I would still put dry gas in the tank
My 1990 S10 pick-up had a similar problem too. It would start up fine (while the engine was cold) then once the engine warmed up it would idle very rough, sputter, and even stall out. My grandpa and I found what was wrong finally. The fuel distributor had been cracked, so when the engine warmed up it would miss (giving either too much or not enough fuel). So I recommend that you check that. Hope this helps.