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Car heating and cooling erratic, if it is in cooling, it will start heating and back to cooling again and there is no call for heating. the next time you turn thesystem on it will run the way its supposed to.

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Sounds like the auto temp control unit malfunction

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

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Can over heating be caused by it jumping time


unlikely
jumping time will result in an erratic operation of the engine more so than over heating
over heating is from cracked heads , blown head gaskets , fan failure, blocked radiator, hole in cooling system, insufficient coolant, failure of over drive in the transmission, incorrect gear selection, ignition timing to far after TDC and air /fuel ration incorrect --too lean

Feb 19, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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My son has a 1994 ford taurus we replaced the distributer cap and wired and it still stalls when driving and sometimes won't start back for sometimes a couple hours. What could be the problem?


check that the coil is the correct voltage in use start/ run 12 volts or start 12 volt run 7.5 volts ( a 7.5 volt running on 12 volts= faulty ignition resistance wire == all the time will fail from over heat condition)
next feel the coil when it stops --it should be warm but not hot to the touch
next test/ replace the ignition control module
These items will loose capacity to operate if they get too hot from component failure but in cooling down will again work until they get hot again

Jan 23, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why is 2001 audio overheating


Most Audi's over heat for one reason. Bad cooling processes and equipment.

what does that mean?

Audi Cooling system. Is under pressure... if hoses (heater core) are plugged or the thermostat fails or its a hot day and the cool fans arent running you are likely to experience the dreaded AUDI VW cooling issues.

First things First. Check the coolant and OIL level.

any white sludgey stuff in the oil (popped head gasket)
low oil.. could be over heating your engine.

Freezing cold day when it is over heating.. frozen coolant


Thermostat issues are hard to determine and So cheap to rectify...
ask yourself this? when was it changed last if not in the last 60 K and you are having an issue. REPLACE IT.. Now you can trust it again.


Over heating issues after replacing a thermostat or having a low coolant issues and you have filled it again.. its likely you have the double dreaded AUDI AIR BUBBLE.

I have worked out a few by letting the engine warm up and cool down repeatedly 6 - 10 times..
By WARM up I dont mean over heat and destroy.

Ever time it heated to normal operating temp the thermostat opened and moved some air around the loop.
when the system cooled i added a little more audi coolant to the tank and repeated the process eventually the bubles come out enough to drive.


be smart take it to teh end of the drive and back and check the temp, oil and coolant.
park it.. let it cool
next drive take it down the drive, to the end of the neighbors drive and back.. re check the temp, oil and coolant.. see the pattern?

DO IT.

lol It works for me.. Be patient. double check yourself before driving. Double check it again.. like you need to start the task from the finish.. you will be surprised the things you find you missed. : )

Cheers and good luck.

Jun 20, 2014 | 2001 Audi A6

1 Answer

Coolant Sensor


extended crank time when cold, poor fuel economy, spark knock, lack of engine power,erratic or high or low idle,cooling fans run all the time.cooling fan fails to turn on, engine over heating. God bless!

Apr 05, 2014 | 2003 Pontiac Montana

1 Answer

Citroen troubleshooting


I had similar problems 2 times with the automatic heat / AC module.
I suppose your system is automatic too.

First time the commands were working erratically acting weird. Sometimes was heating at full capacity blowing heads off. At other times it was not starting at all.
The whole module had to be replaced.

Second time if the car stayed in the sun the AC was heating, after starting the engine and cooling started only after achieving greater speeds (above ~60km/h). Whenever the speed decreased the system began to heat again eventually. It turned out that the engine cooling fan was broken and had to be replaced. That fan cools both the engine radiator and the AC radiator. If it is faulty your engine might be at risk of overheating at low speeds.

Mar 26, 2014 | 2001 Citroen Xsara

1 Answer

Heat/Cool gauge fluctuates inconsistently


You might check the coolant level after the engine cools,if it's low add 50/50 mixture of coolant and water. Keep an eye on the level to see if it happens again. You might have a small leak in the system. Good luck


Jan 18, 2010 | 1998 Volvo S90

1 Answer

The compressor stops working. I parked the car for a week and when I came back from out of town it wasn't cooling. I took it to the dealership, they said the relay was popped out o_O. popped it in, started...


sounds like they cant find the problem, i dont think an 03 would have that kind of wiring problem, i think there guessing, could be a bad compressor, but hard to say without checking it . good luck, maybe its time for a 2nd shop to look at it.

Oct 29, 2009 | 2003 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Heater comes on and go off when it wants to.


What you're likely referring to is the blowing air starts and stops erratically. Since the heater uses heat circulated from the engine, if the air is constant and the heat comes in and out then that's a different issue.
Firstly, if the airflow starts and stops, you'll find a loose connection between the the fan switch and the blower itself. If the connections are sound, then look for a loose ground connection to the blower. If all electrical connections are good, and it still starts and stops erratcially, then it's time for a replacement blower.
Secondly, If the air is constant and the heat comes in and out, the the options are a faulty water pump or partial blockage in the colling system or heater core. If the water pump is failing and working erratically, then when the heat dissipates in the cabin airflow (it has used all the heat in the heater core and no circulation to replace the cooled water with hot water) the dash temp gauge should start to climb, indicating that the coolant is no longer circulating, the heat has left the heater core but the engine is not being cooled. You'll need to replace the water pump. If this is the case, take care of this ASAP as you run the risk of a an engine overheat.
If the dash temp gauge looks normal, then you're likely looking at a partial obstruction in either the cooling system or the heater core that blocks the flow and then works its way loose erratically. Limescale and crud buildup in your cooling system (especially in a 15-ys-old car) can cause this when flakes of buildup brake loose from the walls of the larger channels and get caught up in the smaller ones. Your local parts store will have additives to clean out the cooling system, but if they don't work (they can only do so much) then you're looking at a professional cooling system flush. If the issue persists after that then you're likely looking at a heater core replacement.
Also check to see that your a/c is not kicking in erratically. It shouldn't completely cool down the full-hot airflow, but it will cool it. You can tell if the a/c unit is kicking in as you'll hear the compressor clutch kick in and the engine revs/sound will change under the load. If this is the case look for a short in the a/c wiring.
Hope this helps, and please rate my answer.

Dec 31, 2008 | 1994 Geo Tracker

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