A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check for spark to make sure the distributor is working. If there is not spark than make sure the distributor is turning. Remove the cap and see if the rotor turns will a helper cranks the engine over. If it is turning than use a test light connected to ground and see if spark comes out of the ignition coil while the engine is being cranked. if there is no spark make sure there is power to the coil. if there is power you may have a defective distributor. if there is no power check fuses.
if the rotor is not turning check to make sure the timing belt is not broken.
Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire. Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one.
Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder. When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. This indicates the number one cylinder is at Top Dead Center or "TDC" on the compression stroke.
Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing. Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor.
Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.
Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing.
Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading.
Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.
Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration.
careful with seems--u hav to pinpoint issue plus todays cars are complex--may just need a distributer cap-they wear--take it off and see if any corrosion inside--believe thers latches or screws on the side--a wire brush cud clean it--ignition modules are in there too-they go bad--replacin hole distr is a mechs job
No it is likely the OPTI SPARK distributor has failed, it is the Achilles heal of the LT1 V8. The distributor is located under the water pump on the front of the engine, if the water pump leaks it goes right into the distributor. To replace the distributor you must drain the cooling system and remove the water pump and all other obstructing parts to get to it. Before you replace any parts I suggest you have a trained technician run a scan of the system for fault codes, other things can cause this as well. The distributor is very expensive and i am only guessing based on my experience with my own 1996 Corvette LT1
when you say coil, do you mean the ignition coil or the pick up coil (aka pickup module)? It is located under the rotor in the distributor-if you replaced the distributor (did you really?) it should have had a new unit in it, the only other thing I could guess is you have some sort of issue with a fuse or relay for the ignition.
1 remove the cable from the coil to the distributor. check this agains earth, when you turn the engine over.
if spark, suspect rotor arm is not setting spark to each spark plug lead. open distributor and clean the rotor arm with a cloth or wire wool not sand paper as this will take off too much and cause a problem
2 check inside distributor for moisture. spray inside with WD40 or equiventy water repelent.
3 if not spark at coil open distriutor cap and with ignition on, open and close points in distributor with a screw driver and check coil again against earth again if you get sparh, problem is points not opening and closing.
4 turn over engine with distributor cover removed to see if rotor arm is moving if not then cam drive to distributor is defective. this controls points and rotor arm.
if rotor arm turning and spark at points but no spark at coil suspect Low tension wiring or coil needs replacement.
NOT MUCH TO GO ON, MOST NON STARTERS ARE CAUSE BY ELECTRICCS
1. TEST FOR SPARK ON EACH LEAD WHEN CRANKING ENGINE
GUESS YOU HAVE POINTS IN THE DISTRIBUTOR,
2. IF NO SPARK AT PLUG LEADS, TURN IGNITION ON AND OPEN POINTS WITH S/DRIVER SEE IF SPARK FROM COIL TO DISTRIBUTOR LEAD HAVE THE END HELD CLOSE TO EARTH POINT, THEN CHECK THEY OPEN WHEN ENGINE ROTATES, IF THAT FAILS CHECK POWER TO COIL WITH IGN ON.
CHECK YOU HAVE FUEL GETTING TO THE PLUGS,
To save you all the hassle check your spark plugs & distributor first if you are getting a spark. To do that first take out the number one spark plug wire it will be the one closest to the distributor. Second take out the spark plug, then put the spark plug in the spark plug wire. Turn on the engine u should see a spark at the spark plug if your distributor is ok and spark plug. If not replace your distributor.