Of course the dealer replaced the bulbs. That's how they charged me so much for the 'repair' and it did work for 6 months. The thing was those were the bulbs that came from the factory when the car was new. So the dealer probably moved or replaced the loose or shorting wire while they were looking for the problem. Just don't know where to look for the bad wire.
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Re: z3 blowing fuses
Sound like you have a dishonest dealer. i dont like to say that but somtimes its true. have you pulled the tail lights and had a look at the wiring and sockets. that would be the first place to look. if you dont find anything let me know ill digg up the wiring diagram for ya.
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Remove the right front and rear turn signal bulbs. If it still blows a fuse take it to your mechanic to find / fix the short circuit. If it does not blow the fuse, replace the bulbs. You may of course also replace the bulbs one at a time to narrow it further as to which one.
first thing i guess to understand what is going on here ,is a little back to basics on how turnsignals work , first item you have is power fuse then it's off to flasher module than it goes to the turnsignal switch on colum ,of course anywhere on it way to there the power could got to ground and cause the fuse to trip, now the power depending on Left or right selection , is directed to lights on both front and back of truck,thankfully rangers don't have em on the side) now any place in this pathway the wire could go to ground and blow the fuse, now to troubleshoot and narrow down the area that fault is located , (1) replace fuse with correct size and ck for proper fit in fusebox and start and operate truck for a few minutes DO not use turnsignals, ck fuse is it still good if so go to step 2 if not stop and ck wire conditions in steering colum and switch(2) start truck and try right hand turn signal only verify lights working ,Ok yes/no if not replace fuse and try left side same way, Ok yes /no if right or left side only blows fuses take ALL bulbS OUT of lights and try again , if fuse still blows then look for wire fault on that side of truck if fuse is still good then look carefull at light bulb sockets for rust and powered corrosion (ill bet an 87 has some ) you may need to replace bulb sockets , they do sell em in autoparts stores .
I just called my local Autozone and asked for a brake light for a 2004 Jetta, they asked the engine size. I told them I was looking for a buddy of mine and I don't know the engine size. I told them the take to a dealer thing in the manual. They sell the bulbs for around $6. They are Sylvania. If it were a dealer only thing autozone wouldn't sell the bulb. Take it to your local autozone/pep boys/advanced auto store and they will replace it for you at no extra charge. I know autozone does this for sure. If you can do it yourself just remember to wear gloves to prevent the oil from your finger prints from getting on the bulb. This is especially true for headlights. The oil can burn thru the glass and blow the bulb prematurely
These did have an issue with headlamps. Have the charging system checked for proper voltage(under 15v, usuall charging is around 14.5). The quality of the bulb is critical and must not be a generic brand. If this thing is still under warranty, get all the paperwork together ad take it into the dealer. How many miles are on this van? Another item to consider is whether or not you are touching the bulb with your fingers. The bulbs WILL burn out faster if the oils from your fingers sit on the bulb and cook. Make sure that the rubber drain on the lens assemblyis clear and not obstructed. Let me know. I used to work for KIA so I am versed in some of their practices.
There is nominally a fuse, relay, and a switch associated with your reverse lights. Possible repair listed from 'easy to hard' by escalation
easy: disconnect your negative battery cable, check the fuse block. It should be a 20A fuse(#F203). Some models use a 10A fuse(#F26). Replace as needed Reconnect the battery, test. if that doesn't work...
moderate. have already checked the fuse, check to see if you have a "reversing light relay" (K6325) (My 2001 z3 does not) If present, disconnect negative battery cable and replace the entire relay. It is not worth trying to refurbish them. Reconnect the battery, test.
if that doesn't work...
hard... If both the fuse and relay are in good order, it is likely a fault in your wiring or the "reversing light switch"(S8511)
On the manual transmission: The switch is located on the left of the gertrag transmission The switch is located on the right of the ZF transmission
unscrew the switch from the transmission install the new switch, tighten to 15 ft-lbs torque
On the automatic transmission: If replacing the fuse and relay did not work there is an issue with your transmission range switch, various shift solenoids, shift linkage, etc. I highly recommend a dealer or qualified facility's examination.
FIRSTLY ONLY BUY QUALITY BULBS DONOT TOUCH THE GLASS PART OF THE BULB WHEN FITTING THEM. GET THE CHARGING SYSTEM CHECKED IF THE ALTERNATOR OUT PUT IS TOO HIGH THE FIRST THING TO BLOW WILL BE THE HEADLAMP BULB NEXT CHECK THE HEADLAMP IS SECURE AND NOT LOOSE ALSO THE BULB HOLDER IS CLIPPED SECURLEY AS THIS ACTS AS A HEAT SINK FOR THE BULB
you more than likely have a shorted wire in the headlight harness... you will have to check the wiring from the headlight bulbs to see if it has been pinched up against a sharp metal edge causing a grounded wire, or maybe the harness was crushed by an improper headlight installation.
Hurrah, I've managed to stop my fuse 46 blowing.
The problem was the wire that run into the boot lid.
There is a thick bunch gathered together and a single wire that runs along side, im guessing this feeds the boot lid / spoiler brake light.
anyhow that wire was broken and Im guessing would touch after the boot had been opened and closed.
Which is how i figured out the intermittent (could last a day or an hour) problem.
Hope this helps