Hi was just woudering if the lifters are meant to be solid i have just removed them and cant compress the nipple but on the end i think they are stuffed is there any way to free them up?
its a 1996 model single cam
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Hi. I can give you a simple, but time consuming test to do to check your intermittent compression problem. New hydraulic lifters cause a lot of problems until its settled. Remove the camshafts and the hydraulic lifters. Take each hydraulic lifter and put it in a vice(becarefull not to damage them) and squeeze out all the oil in the lifters. Then put them back and replace camshaft and allign timing marks. Check compression ratio. What happens sometimes is that the oil pressure is too high(stuck oil pressure release valve or cold thick oil) and this causes the oil pressure to put so much pressure on the hydraulic lifters, that it slightly forces the valve open. That will cause your low compression as well as backfire through the intake.
The lifters are not supposed to be adjusted. Each lifter is a small "engine" itself. They are supposed to be self-adjusting (this was changed way back in the 1950's). If you are determined to adjust them, you will need to contact a place that builds race car engines, because there are procedures race cars use that adjust them. Oh yes, you can also replace hydraulic lifters with solid lifters. Some race cars do, and that is because, at really high RPM's, lifters can :"float", causing the engine to "top out" and not go any faster. I had that happen on a car back in the 1970's. Be blessed.
You can't do this, the system is set up for hydraulic as far as the fuel injection control modules programming goes, also how would you adjust them, there is no provision for that on the engine you have.
Cut/machine them from a hardenable billet and make sure to provide oiling to the valve train to accomodate the changes to the oiling gallery dynamics with the switch. Plus you need to have adjustability in the valve train to maintain safe operating clearances of the valve train.
Depending on the engine, solid lifters may already be available from various manufacturers who produce solid lifter racing cams. Like Melling, Crane, Crower, etc.
Some engines such as the old flathead V8 Fords were solid lifter the entire time.
You should have hydraulic lifters, unless someone changed them along the way. Normally nobody puts solid lifters in a vehicle that is a driven on the street daily. That being said, the normal adjustment for hydraulic lifters is normally take all clearance out of rocker arm to lifter plus an extra 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I used to do this with the motor running, I would adjust it tighter till it quits rattling and then tighten an extra 1/2 turn. If the lifters are bad, however, the rattling will never go away. I hope this helps.
I believe valves in modern vehicles are hydraulic and do not require adjustment. It is possible your vehicle may be different or has been modified. Solid lifters are not unknown just not real popular because of the maintenance they require. If there is a problem with the vehicle and you suspect valves are out of adjustment, you could remove the 4 bolts that hold the cover on and look. If there are adjusters, they will be immediately visable.
If the engine is not apart, there isn't any real way to tell but if you remove a valve cover, on a solid lifter cam, when the engine is turned, there should be one time, when the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe a bit past the time when the valve you are watching has closed, that you should have about 16 thousandths or more clearance between the rocker and the valve stem (called lash) A hydraulic lifter is always in contact with no gap.(though you may get a false reading if a lifter is bleeding down) if the engine is apart enough to see the top of the lifters, a hydraulic lifter has a wire clip in the top that holds the hydraulic piston inside from popping out too far. A solid lifter does not have a clip because it dosen't need one (that's why it's solid) Unfortunately, to know WHICH cam you have, you'd need to remove it as the manufacturer and grind numbers are usually stamped on the back end. (generally 16thousandths lash on intakes and 18 thousandths on exhaust will put you in the "ball-park" though).
Most of the vortecs that i have worked on have hydraulic roller lifters, but i cant say for certain that your engine does, however i am sure that it has hydraulic lifters and they can be checked by trying to push them down in the center where the pushrods contact, if they compress easily the lifter is bad, If they are roller lifters, check for any wear on the roller and how well they turn, it is ok to have some side to side movement on the pin but any up/down movement on the roller is bad. If the are non-roller lifters check for wear, if the lifter looks "dished" or "concaved" rather than having flat surface replace the lifter.
No such thing as a 'cam follower' on any engines. Need clarification from someone who knows what they're talking about. Common misconception about 'cam followers'.. they simply don't exist -- cam lobes push against lifters (or rockers), in turn (rockers)lifters push against valve stems, valves then 'open' or 'close' accordingly. Perhaps you're describing valve/tappet noise?... if so, is the engine design of 'solid' or 'hydraulic' lifters?..If Solid, then overhaul, is hydraulic, then perhaps 'Z-Max' treatment will help.