I had a $600 brake job done on my 1993 Cierra in the fall of 2007. The fronts were totally redone. The backs were fine so they cleaned and adjusted them.
Since it's still under warranty I brought it back when the right front wheel was getting very hot. When I went to wash the car it was like a steam machine when the water hit it. It only happened to one wheel, so I figured it needed to be checked.
When the mechanic looked at it and raised it up on the rack. He said the front was fine. My rear brake lines were rusted through. He wanted $500 more. This was for replacing the lines only. The master cylinder is fine. When I got in to drive it home, after having them fill the brake fluid, the pedal went to the floor and there were no brakes.
I told him that I definately had brakes when I came. Did THEY break the line? Of course, they said no.
Why did they not see the bad brake lines last time it was in? They said my braking system was fine then, as they took my $600 check.
When I got the car home, my driveway looks like a river of brake fluid. If the car had been leaking before, I would have seen it.
Can brake lines rust in 8 months? Do you think I'm getting ripped off?
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Re: Rear brake lines rusted through?
From the information you've provided, YES, you seem to be getting ripped off. This does not sound like a scrupulous mechanic. I don't know what recourse options you have available to you against this shop, but you need to go somewhere else.
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You have to make sure the brake system is operating properly.Change both rear brakes it sounds like the left rear brake side is not working making the right side wear out so quick.After changing the back brakes bleed them making sure you have no air in your brake lines.start bleeding them from the left rear to the right rear to the left front to right front to master cylinder.
Several possibilities. Sound transmits through metal. The rear Emergency brakes will lose their lining and the linings fall into the rear brake drum. They will often pulverize the material and the piles of debris will shift when backing up and repeat the process going forward. Rust on the front rotors. Constant battle. Can rust in 3 days enough to make noise. Sticking caliper or rubber brake hose is breaking down inside and blocking brake fluid return. Fluid has pressure to tighten caliper but relies on gravity/suction return. Rubber brake hoses internally can form flaps which act like 1 way gates. Check other front axle for same parts, maybe 1/2 shaft is failing.
You will need to take a look at the line from front to rear, this job can get big fast, and if you have ABS (anti locking brakes ) it makes it harder, if you can see a good part of the line where it can be cut and flared with an end then cut it there, the black box is just a plastic cover. that cover holds the dirt and water and makes the lines rust sooner, i do these lines all the time and most of the time i run new lines from front to the rear brake hose , most of the time if there is another weak spot then you will be doing the job again and again.
you will need brake line a flaring tool, a bubble or double flaring tool to make the line ends and fittings and connectors, you will need to bend the line by hand and when your done you will need to bleed the brake system.
hi any kind of screeching noise normally means uve got a metal on metal contact so i wd say u probally need ur pads changing also the rust that forms is totally normal when not used for a while goodluck
check rear rotors and front rotors for rust buildup (flahlight helps). does the vehicle shake when you come to a hard stop? You will either need to have a front or rear or both brake job (rotors cut or replaced and new brake pads) If the vehicle is shaking when coming to a stop, its probably your front pads. If your hearing the noise from the rear its the rear pads or it you hear it from the front its the front pads. If there significant rust build up or your pads are low a brake job is recommended.
Hello, some of the Front wheel drive cars used a rear suspension system which requires an Alignment just the same as the front end. You can get the rear Alignment separately but it is usually a packaged 4 wheel Alignment. Jack up the back end of the car and turn the wheels and check for them turning hard. This will indicate a brake or bearing problem.
The rear wheels do have an Emergency brake which can cause problems dragging even when not used. The bonded lining falls off the brake shoe when it rusts and the lining falls onto the rotating parts and gets ground up. Sometimes you will hear a noise like loose rust as you stop and start at low speeds. You can also have a sticking rear Caliper or drum brake.
The rear hubs have bearings which can fail; usually you will hear noises or have vibrations when the bearings are worn loose. Your best bet is to remove the rear brake rotor and visually inspect the Emergency brakes and feel the turning of the rear hub bearing. If you do not have the rear brake assembly on the car it will be easier to work on the bearing. Bearings are made 2 ways. The Sealed bearings are replaced as a hub unit. The Serviceable bearings have removeable bearings and races.
You want to have the rear bearing in good shape before having an Alignment. The Sealed bearing hubs are the easiest to replace by removing and replacing only bolts. The Serviceable bearings can require punching out and installing a new race, then packing the bearing with grease.
Some shops do both Brakes and Alignment and some just do the brakes. You can fix what you can handle before getting an Alignment or pay for both jobs. I hope you find my solution very helpful.
Time for a brake Job? Drive a small cheap car hard and you can run the brakes off quick. Real brakes come with real cars and these light cars have small brakes and if run hard or two footed can wear out quickly. Light niose can be rust wiped off the rotor after parked awhile then driven. Some brake rotors are different alloy and rust more than others and even a car just like yours might not do it. If the inspection doesnt find loose or broken brake parts cooked or craked, rim and tire problems can make noise move the tire to the back and the rear on the front run again to see if the problem moves to the rear. replace the broken parts and try again
Brake lines are not expensive, you can purchase different diameters, and lengths at any parts store. If the line is rusted and leaking, the rest of the brake line system needs to be visually inspected, as usually when a line rusts through, the rest of the system is probably rusting away and may also need replacement. So, although the parts are not expensive, this is a lousy labor intensive job. The lines will be rusted at connections and difficult to separate, and brake system will have to be bled to remove all air. Your safety is of the utmost importance, so get this fixed before you drive it. To fix the one line should not cost much, to replace all the brake lines could cost several hundred $. If you can do it yourself, you can save a lot, but as I said, it's a lousy job, especially if you don' have a lift to raise the car for easier access. Good luck.
it sounds to me like you may have gotten the wrong ones I would got to NAPA or Autozone and get only the parts you need and if you have the old ones take them with you and also ask for compression fittings it will make the job alot easier and do not forget to bleed the brake lines when done