I'm about to do the front brakes on my daughters 1999 Grand Vitara and before I start I was wondering just what I'll need for a lug wrench size for wheel lug nuts and for removing the calipers. I've done GM, Ford and Chrysler products and every time caliper bolts are different, so the Suzuki is bound to be a surprise I suppose. Thanks to anyone for their help!

the former is not related to the latter, if the batter is charged and good.
, remove minus lug first
. now remove the POS lug, last (last off , first on)
now unclamp battery.
now lift out battery.
but back in exact reverse of above.
never let the PLUS terminal wrench hit ground ever. or
the gods will be let loose (acid and flame) seen noobs to that over and over. (me in distant running, no stop, dont do that)

i think you need help, go to walmart they even have this neat free
tester that tells , the untrained what is bad.(alterntor/battery or conns)

What You'll Need:

• lug wrench
• c-clamp
• open end or adjustable wrench (depending on your car)
• Allen wrenches (depending on your car)
• hammer
• small bungee cord

1. Preparation
Be sure you've got everything ready to go before you remove your old brake pads. Most important, be sure safety is at the front of your mind. You'll be taking the wheel off so be sure you have your car jacked up and resting securely on jackstands. Go ahead and break the lugsbefore you jack it up. It's much easier and safer with the wheel on the ground.

Never work on a car which is supported by a jack only! Unless you turn green and your clothes tear themselves to pieces when you get mad, there is no part of your person that can hold a car in the air if the jack slips. You may need to replace your brake discs depending on the amount of wear they have. You should inspect your brake discs regularly.



2. Remove the Wheel

Remove the Wheel


You broke the lugs while the car was still on the ground, so they should be pretty easy to remove. I like to remove them from the bottom up, leaving the top lug nut to be removed last. This keeps the wheel in one place while you remove the rest of them and makes it easier to safely catch the wheel once you remove the last nut. You can't replace brake pads with the wheel on!

If you remove the lugs and still can't get the wheel off, try this stuck wheel trick.

3. Unbolt the Caliper

On most cars, the next step is to remove the brake caliper so the brake pads will slide out through the top. On a few cars the pads will come out without removing the caliper, but not many. You'll see the brake caliper in the 12 o'clock position just above the lug bolts, riding atop that shiny brake disc.

On the back of the caliper you'll find a bolt on either side. It will either be a hex bolt of an Allen bolt. Remove these two bolts and put them aside.

Hold the caliper from the top and pull upward, wiggling it around to loosen it up. If it's stubborn, give it a few taps (taps, not Hank Aaron swings) upward to loosen it a bit. Pull it up and slightly away, being sure not to put any stress on the brake line (that black hose that's still connected).

If there is a place to safely set the caliper back there, do it. If not, you'll need to take your bungee cord and hang the caliper from something, the giant coil spring staring at you is a good spot. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line, it can cause damage and lead to brake failure!

4. Remove the Old Brake Pads

Before you pull out the old brake pads, take a second to observe how everything is in installed. If there are little metal clips around the brake pads, note how they are in there so you can get it right when you put things back together. Better yet, take a digital picture of the whole assembly.

With the caliper out of the way, the brake pads should slide right out. I say should because in a new car they probably would. Since our cars are not always new, you may need to coax them out with a litte tap of the hammer to loosen them up. If your car has little metal tabs holding onto the brake pads, put them to the side becase you'll need them in a minute. Put the new pads in the slots with any metal clips you removed.

While you're here, it might be a good idea to inspect your brake discs.

Go ahead and slide the new pads into place now, making sure you don't forget any of the little retaining clips you removed earlier.

5. Compress the Brake Piston

As your brake pads wear out, the caliper adjusts itself so that you will have strong brakes throughout the life of the pads. If you look on the inside of the caliper you'll see a round piston coming out. This is what pushes on the brake pads from the back. Problem is, it's adjusted itself to match your worn out pads. Trying to get it over the new pads is like parking a Cadillac in New York City. You can do it, but the damage level will be high. Instead of destroying your new pads, you'll push the piston back to the starting point.

Take the c-clamp and place the end with the screw on it against the piston with the other end of the clamp around on the back of the caliper assembly. Now slowly tighten the clamp until the piston has moved far enough in that you can easily plop the caliper assembly over the new pads.

6. Re-Install the Brake Caliper

With the piston compressed, you should be able to easily slide the caliper assembly over the new pads. Once you have it on there, replace the bolts you removed and tighten them snugly. Press the brake pedal a few times to make sure you have solid brake pressure. The first pump or two will be soft as the piston finds its new starting point on the back of the pad.

Put your wheel back on, being sure to tighten all of the lug bolts. Now double-check your lug bolts just to be sure.

You're done! Feels good, right?

Tools you may need: New Brake Pads, Jack and Jack Stands, Lug Wrench, Large Phillips Head Screwdriver, Dead Blow Hammer, Open End or Ratchet Wrench Set, C-Clamp; Optional tools: Open end or adjustable wrench, Allen wrenches, hammer, small bungee cord.
Most important, BE SAFE Safety needs to be the most important part of your project. You'll be taking the wheel off so be sure you have your car jacked up and resting securely on jack stands.
Next : Preparation
Make sure you've got everything ready to go before you start this project. Go ahead and break the lugs before you jack it up. It's much easier and safer with the wheel on the ground.
Never work on a car which is supported by a jack only! You may need to replace your brake discs depending on the amount of wear they have endured.
Remove them from the bottom up, leaving the top lug nut for last. This keeps the wheel in place while you remove the rest of them and makes it easier to catch the wheel once you remove the last top nut.I remember one night my daughter called me in a panic,?Dad we had a flat, now we can't get the wheel off, what do we do??If you remove the lugs and still can't get the wheel off, try this stuck wheel trick.
Reinstall the lug nuts them leaving about 5 turns before they start to get snug. Now lower the car to the ground, get in and start it up. Drive back and forth 4 or 5 feet a few times. Now jack the car up and test the wheel. It should be nice and loose now.
On most cars, the next step is to remove the brake caliper to access the pads.On the back of the caliper you'll find 2 bolts. It will either be a hex bolt or an Allen bolt.Remove these two bolts and put them aside.
Hold the caliper from the top and pull upward, wiggling it around to loosen it up. If it's stubborn,give it a few taps with a hammer to loosen it a bit. Pull it up and slightly away, being sure not to put any stress on the brake line.
If there is a place to safely set the caliper back there, do it. If not, you'll need to take your bungeecord and hang the caliper from something, the coil spring is a good spot.Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line, it can damage the line, causing a tear, which may leak.Before you pull out the old brake pads, take a second to observe how everything is in installed. If there are little metal clips around the brake pads, note how they are in there so you can getit right when you put things back together. Take a digital picture of the whole assembly, so you do not forget.With the caliper out of the way, the brake pads should slide right out, they may have little metal tabs holding the pads on the brake calipers pistons.While you're here, it might be a good idea to inspect your brake discs, looking for deep groves.As your brake pads wear out, the caliper pistons will push out of the caliper itself to keep the pads close to the rotor or self adjust, so that you will have quick brakes throughout the life of the pads. Now the pistons are adjusted to match the worn out pads. You will need to push the piston back into caliper housing.Take the c-clamp or a caliper tool and place the end with the screw on it against the piston with the other end of the clamp. Now tighten the clamp until the piston is in far enough that you can easily put the caliper with the new pads over the rotor. Once back together, you can put a little grease on the caliper mounting bolts and replace the bolts.Press the brake pedal a few times to make sure you have solid brake pressure, but remember you will have to start the car up to bring up the vacuum assist, so they will feel like you are used too. The first pump or two will be soft as the piston moves to adjust to the new pads. Put your wheel back on, tighten all of the lug bolts.

Lug nut wrench
Allen head, star head or 6 point socket wrench
Piston spanner tool

If jumping the car off starts it and it will keep running, then you have a bad battery and need to replace it. If it starts the car and it shuts off again, you need to replace your alternator.

As for the oil situation, make sure there isn't an oil leak. And it isn't likely that there's an oil sensor.

if the brake pads were worn enough or if the caliper was stuck then it would have generated enormous amounts of heat, causing the wheel the stick to the rotor. when I have had this problem I put the lug nuts back on the lugs 2 or 3 turns and tap on them with a hammer, this usually breaks the wheel loose.

check front brake rotors sounds like there warped..or it might be in your drive shafts check for looseness

The rims from the Honda CRV won't fit the Grand Vitara.

The Honda has a 5 X 114.3mm spacing and the Grand Vitara has 5 X 139.7mm spacing. This means that even though they are both 5 lug rims, the Honda lugs are spaced closer together than the Vitara so they won't match up.

1999 Taurus/Sable Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc 1999 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 06/25/1998 Disc Removal

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Be careful to avoid damage or interference with caliper bleeder screw fitting and front disc brake rotor shield (2K004).
   

1. CAUTION: Handle front disc brake rotor (1125) and disc brake caliper (2B120) assembly in such a way as to prevent deformation of front disc brake rotor , and nicking, scratching or contamination of brake linings/rotor surfaces.
   NOTE: To prevent damage, do not allow disc brake caliper to hang by the front brake hose (2078) .
   
   
   Remove caliper anchor plate bolts and discard. Position disc brake caliper out of the way. Prevent separation of caliper housing from anchor bracket because contamination of guide pin journals can occur.
   

1. NOTE: If excessive force must be used during front disc brake rotor removal, the front disc brake rotor should be checked for runout prior to installation.
   
   
   If additional force is required to remove front disc brake rotor , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor F2AZ-19A501-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A on front and rear rotor/hub mating surfaces. First, strike front disc brake rotor between lug bolts (1107) with a plastic hammer. If this does not work, attach 2-3 Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) assembly by pulling it off the lug bolts.
   

Installation

1. If original front disc brake rotor is being installed, make sure rotor braking and mounting surfaces are clean.
   

1. CAUTION: Failure to clean rust and foreign material from rotor and hub mounting faces when installing new or old front disc brake rotors will result in high rotor runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness shudder vibration.
   Apply a small amount of Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to pilot diameter of front disc brake rotor.
   

1. Install front disc brake rotor on wheel hub assembly.
   

1. Install disc brake caliper and new caliper anchor bracket bolts on front disc brake rotor . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
   

1. CAUTION: Failure to tighten lug nuts (1012) in a star pattern may result in high rotor runout, which will speed up the development of brake roughness, shudder and vibration.
   Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle. Tighten lug nuts to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft) using Rotunda Accutorq® Lug Nut Socket 164-R0303 or equivalent on a 1/2 inch air impact wrench, or use a torque wrench.
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
   

1. Road test vehicle.
   

jack up one side at a time without the ebrake on as that will engage only the rear brakes remove lugs and have a good hammer handy and tap on the drum until it will pull off