After changing battery...the air will not work, giving me a message on the screen telling me to start the engine first before cutting on the air. Also, the outside temp. is blank. I was able to provide the PIN for the navigation and the radio. I was also able to reset my remote.

I see more than one issue in your story. Its possible the computer lost memory and will need to relearn. But that would not explain the knocking noise. The oil pressure warning might explain the noise if oil pressure really is low. Running without the belt for even 5 min would not cause the problems you describe.
I would focus on the low oil pressure warning and the noise first.

wont start, or wont crank>????????

did you follow all the steps in the FSM for this?
and heed the warnings?
did you shut down the AIR bags first. (battery pull and the 90 second rule) and keep battery pulled whole time?
air bags can kill, and ign. key fiddling is #1 here.
i bet you did not pull the battery as the FSM directs and you blew the fuses. or worse.
do you have the IMMO , immoblizer option, is the IMMO dash lamp
telling you, its ACTIVE, that is, IMMOBILized? bingo
the IMMO lamp tells you , im ok, at key on, and then tells you Im off or on. the operators guide covers this lamp, lost your guide?

the IMMO cuts fuel , not cranking in most cars.
Does the CEL glow key on, if not the ECU is dead, blown fuse #1 reason.

Check for any stored engine codes, this may give you an idea of any problems that may cause your complaint. Possible crank position sensor, cam position sensor or ignition module would cause a 'die in flight' situation.

I had a similar problem with a 1999 Chevy Astro. All fuses checked out good. Several posts advised cleaning the battery terminals, checking out the ECU to cutting the yellow wire from the ignition switch, check to see if it'll crank on Neutral, and also checking/replacing the brake switch. I simply removed several keys from the key ring, then shot several bursts of air from an air can (some keys are keyed to the ECU to turn off the Security System when attempting to start the engine), then waited several minutes for any condensation to dissipate, then was able to crank the engine to life.

First things you need are a digital multi-meter and a chilton or haynes manual (together, both are far cheaper than the first incorrect diagnosis you may make)
Second, you will need time to first study the manual and run diagnostic tests on each component.
Every engine needs fuel air and spark in order to start and run Air is pretty much a "given" unless there is a big fat woodchuck stuck in the air filter box. Air flow is regulated by the throttle body which simply opens and closes when you press down on the gas pedal.
(which should really be called the air pedal)
The computer sensors see the internal conditions: TPS "watches" how far you have depressed the pedal. Computer sees that info and changes fuel delivery ans timing according to info from there after comparing info from other sensors, MAP measures the difference in external (ambient) air pressure and compares it with manifold vacuum.Map sensor info translates to proper shift points, engine timing changes and fuel delivery etc. Manifold air temp, measures exactly that.
Coolant temp sensor monitors the engine temp by measuring coolant temp Crank position sensor sends a signal telling the computer exactly where (what position the crankshaft is in) And cam position sensor tells the computer what the position of the camshaft is.Usually an engine will run with a bad sensor except for the tps, cam sensor, and sometimes map sensor. Your asd relay needs a signal from the crank sensor (through the computer) or it will not permit fuel to reach the injectors and will also prevent spark. The cam sensor does much the same thing. Crank Position sensors have a relatively high failure rate so I'd look at that first.
O2 sensor(s) measure the amount of O2 present in the exhaust and send that info to the computer which alters fuel delivery to attempt to keep exhaust "in range" of pre-set parameters.
The IAC (Idle air control) is not a sensor. It responds to what the computer tells it to do in regards to keeping the air in "balance" with fuel flow at idle.
Carburetors remained relatively clean because the fuel and air was mixed there and sent down to the combustion chambers. With injection, only air goes through the throttle body and that leads to "crud" deposits that can obstruct the valve or keep the plunger off the seat and alter the air/fuel mixture. Passageways need to be cleaned and the plunger end as well...but, never turn the plunger while doing that.
The computer takes all the information and uses it to maintain proper spark control and fuel delivery for every load condition.
The computer needs a good connection to all sensors, a good power supply and good ground.
Always check those things before testing. A bad connection in the ignition switch can cause a low or no current condition at the computer. Your engine has two main grounds (battery to block and block to firewall) but also has several smaller ground connections on the fenders and block, all of which need to be clean and secure. Always test with a known good fully charged battery or no test info is valid. All fuses need to be tested before running any other tests.

Bottom line: A shop needs to do the same testing I mentioned that is in the manual. A shop also has a hand held or larger scanner that helps them run tests faster.
Find out whats missing (spark or fuel) and work first on items that make that happen.
Most common failure is the CPS. Fuel pump is second in line, but if you hear it running likely it's good (but make sure the fuel is reaching the injectors...a dirty fuel filter can prevent that)
Guessing gets expensive and the manual will come in handy for many repairs later (never a bad thing to have)
If you have any questions along the way just ask and I or someone else will give you an answer.
Most times running a full diagnostics can be both annoying and frustrating. Keep away from sledge hammers the urge to use them may overcome you but if you stay with it, you can find your problem.

Hi
get the air mass sensor checked out, if these fail the car will start but then cut out straight away. the air mass sensor measures the correct amount of air to mix with the fuel. if they are faulty then they choke the engine either giving to much air, or in your case to little air for the car to run.,,, will the engine rev???

I read the other two solutions top your problem and I have to say, some people should not give advice, because the advice they are giving is not worth anything. NOW, let me tell you what is wrong with your car. You have a defective IAC (Idle Air Control) value. The IAC value (sometimes called a cold start value) is used as a means to quickly start your car when it is cold outside. Replace the IAC (easy to do) and your problem will be solved..

idle air control valve is going bad

Could be a few things. IS the check engine on? Could just be a bad mass air flow sensor. Or a seized wastegate. Yuo can start by trying to unplug the mass air flow sensor. If it runs better it could be just that. Just make sure to remove and clean the lower air filter box change the air filter and the snow screen which is located next to the battery where the air enters. These always are blocked. If it runs ok (not perfect change the mass air flow.

I have seen this problem countless times, and no computer can give you the answer, The problem is your ECT. The Engine Coolant Temp sensor. It tells the computer what temp the engine is at and it uses this input to regulate the fuel. When the engine is cold, the fuel is increased to act as the choke for easier starting. As the engine warms up, the fuel is cut back. When the sensor locks cold, the computer runs the engine in choke mode all the time, sending the fuel ecom\nomy down the toilet.