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Most likely is a problem with the brakes like worn out disk brake pads now making metal to metal dragging between the disk and caliper. take it to a brake shop and have it checked, because it is unsafe to drive if it is this issue.
Grinding noise upon turning is normally one of two issues. First, and most often, it is caused by a worn out outer CV joint. If your vehicle has more than 50000 miles on it and the axle shafts have never been replaced, this is what I would suspect first. In addition, CV noise will be louder when turning under power (gas pedal pressed) than when coasting into a turn. The other possibility is a front wheel bearing assembly. These are not as common, but do wear out as well. The wheel bearings will usually make no noise when going straight, but will make noise upon even the slightest side to side turn. CVs on the other hand, usually grind only when going into corners or making left or right turns. If you suspect a CV joint, but don't have high mileage, you could have a torn CV boot that resulted in the grease that lubricates the joint being depleted and causing the noise. You can inspect the out boots visually for tears....grease leaking out usually leaves telltale spatters in the wheel wells also. Replacement of the CV joint can be done, but it is usually cheaper to replace the entire axle shaft as they are serviced as a unit.
Unfortunately you do not always get "play" in the bearing and they are unserviceable. Replace the entire unit. Here are the instructions for replacement. They bolt into place making it pretty easy to do. Soak the CV shaft which pertrudes from the hub where the nut goes with a good rust penetrant to ease in removal.
Removal & Installation
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheelWheel Speed Sensor (WSS) electrical connectorBrake caliper and bracketRotorDriveshaft nut
Install a front hub removal tool to the wheel bearing/hub assembly with three wheel nuts. Use the tool to push the driveshaft out of the wheel bearing/hub.
Remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly and discard the bolts.
Install or connect the following:
Wheel bearing/hub assembly using new bolts and torque them to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm)New drive shaft nut and torque it to 118 ft. lbs. (160 Nm)Brake rotorFront caliper with the bracketWSS electrical connectorFront wheel
Assuming that the Tires for both Left and Right are:
1. Equal Sizes.
2. Both Properly Inflated - this is a common problem.
3. Have equal wear on them. Example: If the Left Tire is balding on the outside and the Right Tire is balding on the inside, this too is definite sign of an aligment issue; and will cause unequal braking.
Pulling left (or right) during a hard brake might actual mean your Wheel Alignment is way off. When you get one, get a 4-wheel and not just a 2-wheel alignment.
Also: you thought the right thing, but the Left Caliper or Left Brake Hose might also be bad (sticking) causing the left side to brake "harder" then the right side.
You can also Bleed the entire System (all four wheels) starting at the Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Front Right, followed by the Left Front.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!
My first thought would be that you have a brake that is sticking, or dragging, or not fully releasing (on the right, front side). In 2-WD it creates a drag on the right side that causes the vehicle to pull to the right.
In 4wd, the front wheels & all 4 wheels are effectively driven at the same speed, so it compensates for the dragging brake.
I'd start there, and also inspect the cv joints and front drive system to see if there is something out of kilter.
I'd consider front end alignment issues, but does not really sound like that is the issue.