Drove the van in am and sat til evening. Turned key but just "click". Cleaned battery cables and battery posts with baking soda. still just "click". Jumped from known good battery, but just "click". Checked battery cables at starter (negative where starter bolted to engine flange and positive on solenoid) but connections clean and good. Replaced solenoid switch (mounted on starter) but just the same "click". Replaced starter motor, but the same "click". Bench tested old starter motor and it worked fine. The "click" seemed coming from solenoid switch area. Then, 2 days later, I planned to wiggle the gearshift lever and try starting it in neutral. But before I did anything, I turned the key and got a "click", but as I backed off the key, it sounded like the starter motor kicked on. I turned the key again and the engine started perfecftly, I had not yet touched the gearshift lever. It has started strongly without incident 4 or 5 times since. The battery cables seem in good condition, though the end of the negative cable at the battery post is a bit corroded. I tend to think this is not from the gear selector cutout switch since the "click" suggests power went to the solenoid. I isn't my auto alarm system since the cutout is again for the ingnition switch and the solenoid went "click". It seems far fetched that the battery cables are so bad. They are in a plastic sheeth as they go down past the engine. Besides, I wiggled the cables early in the process. Am I mis-interpreting the "click" sound? Is there some other system that isn't working. The battery is fine. The alternator charges it fine. What is this likely about? Can you help?
If you notice this van should have a statrer solenoid on the fender as well as on the starter, clean the body of the solenoid on the fender area and make sure that the ground cable is secure and tight do not wiggle which is just making it loose if it is so go under the vehicle and make sure that the cable is tight
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Most certainly. If battery acid is present on top of the battery, the seal between the post and the top of the battery is leaking. Replace your battery and use baking soda and water to clean the battery cable.
Check all thick gauge cables from the battery to ground, solenoid and starter for tightness. If you find corrosion (it's caused by leaking battery acid) on battery terminals, remove cables and clean battery posts and clamps thoroughly with a wire brush and then scrub with a mixture of 25% baking soda / 75% water on an old toothbrush dipped in the mixture. Continue adding & scrubbing with mixture until fizzing stops. When fizzing stops, the acid has been removed. Next, wash down the whole top of the battery with the mixture and hose off when fizzing stops. Keep any caps secured to the battery! Do not let baking soda mixture enter the battery. You may need to charge or jump the car to get it started again - but the battery should accept a charge for the alternator at this point and keep from draining (assuming the battery is still good).
Have you cleaned both battery terminals with a solution of baking soda and water followed by a battery terminal brush to get a good connection on the battery? Also check for a burned fuse link on the red wire on the alternator and another one on the positive battery cable with a test light to see if that's the problem.
First thing to do is get the battery checked to be sure it is good. It should read more the 9.6 volts but the closer to 13, the better it is. Below 9.6 is no good and it should be charged or replaced.
If the battery is good check your power cables at the starter. Make sure there is no corrosion (green gunk) and that they are tight. A lot of times the cables are the culprit, the ends get corroded and rot sets in and they can't deliver the power. Check the battery ends to make sure they are clean and tight as well. All your electrical contact points should be bare shiny metal to metal.
It is possible that the starter is bad, this does occasionally happen. If that's the case then you should be able to get warranty with less than 100 miles.
Hope this helps.
This means that the battery is probably good. Next you need to check if the cables are bad or the starter is bad.
Corrosion on the cables can prevent the starter from receiving enough power to start. With a voltmeter, first make sure that the battery is providing ~13.5 V (full charge). Then measure the load between the starter and the battery when someone else tries to start the car. A bad cable will be obvious when you test on both the positive and negative sides.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (we had a vehicle that wouldn't start earlier in the month. After removing the starter and finding that it was good, the corrosion was noticed. Cleaning all of the terminals got the vehicle to work (once the starter was correctly reinstalled). Cleaning was done with a wire brush and a baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) water mix (to neutralize any acid that was on the battery). Only the baking soda that dissolved in the water gets used.)
Hello, It sounds like you have loose battery cables or very corroded cables. If that don't help then you have a loose electrical connection. It could be on the starter, If the cable ends and bolts are corroded the clean with baking soda mixed with water (don't) get any in the battery, You can clean the battery where the cables connect) Hope this helps.
If none of light from dash board comes on then there is no power at all. Clean up the inside battery cable connector where it contacts directly to the battery terminals. If it has been cleaned, still no power on dash board lights, then need to check the neutral switch at the transmission shifter.