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Re: 1994 honda prelude si belts system
Some are tough to get on, but if you're bottoming out the tensioner then double check to see if you have the right belt. If it's one of those "this is the belt the guy at the auto parts store said" situations, then take it back, grab a different guy or gal, and have them pull another belt to compare.
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Not sure, but isn't this a serpentine belt which uses a spring loaded tensioner? If so, remove belt and spin all driven items to see if one of them squeaks all by itself. Include spinning tensioner pulley. If no squeak found, check for any loose or misaligned parts. Lastly, replace belt.
Nothing is fast,but could be easy with the know how and right tools.Does it have a serpentine belt,thats one big belt that covers everything that turns...or 2 or 3 separate belts,,,,,,,,,serpentine belt is easy and faster.
Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts
NOTE: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.
Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine.
Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
Except Prelude VTEC models:
Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
NOTE: Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.
On Prelude VTEC models:
Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt.
NOTE: Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1⁄4 fl. oz. (8 ml).
Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.
Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Remove the stopper.
Fig. 11: On VTEC engines, the tensioner must be compressed before installing it on the engine
Fig. 12: Remove the stopper after installing the tensioner on the engine
Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation
Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.
NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990–91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992–95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992–95 Preludes.
Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:
1990 Accord: 166 ft. lbs. (230 Nm)
1991–93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
1992–93 Prelude: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
1994–95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
Install the upper belt cover.
Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
Install the valve cover.
Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
Refill the engine coolant.
Install the splash shield under the engine.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.
Place a long-handled, boxed-end wrench or a belt tension release
tool (A) on the drive belt auto-tensioner from above the engine. Slowly
turn the wrench in the direction shown to release the tension, then
remove the drive belt.
This is a hydraulic type auto-tensioner; you must turn the wrench slowly.
Install the new belt in the reverse order of removal.
Fig. Removing the serpentine belt-2006 Civic with 2.0L engine shown
Fig. Move the auto tensioner (A) to remove the serpentine belt (B)-S2000
Fig. Move the auto-tensioner (A) using the belt tension release
tool to relieve tension from the drive belt (B), and remove the drive
belt-Accord with 2.4L engine
Fig. Move the auto-tensioner (A) using the belt tension release
tool to relieve tension from the drive belt (B), then remove the drive
belt-Accord with 3.0L engine
I do not think the original problem even matters at this point since the engine is probably broke with valves running into pistons.. when you fix it replace every thing that is broken.. and .. just getting in there and replacing the belt can alert you to any additional coming problems like the bearing going bad in the tensioner.. always check or replace the tensioner if there is any doubt as to its condition.. good luck.