- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Ok guys. Here is the starter removal process that works on a 2006 Suzuki Forenza. Secure the vehicle on jack stands & engage the parking brake. There are three bolts connected to the solenoid & two blots holding the mounting bracket. The first bolt is on the same side as the solenoid. To get to the second bolt with ease, you should first remove the air intake from the throddle body to gain access to the second mounting bolt. I used a 19 inch socket & a couple of extensions to remove the bolt. You will see the bolt by looking down past the iac valve on the drivers side of the engine. There is also a hose bracket connected to the bolt & you can trace the bolt to the starter. Problem solved.
www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/suzu/suzuki_dr400s%2080.ht 1980. Engine. Air cooled, four stroke, single cylinder, SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder ....Valve adjustment can be done without a feeler gauge and the CDI has ..
it is a possibility that u have to take off the body bolts and lift up the body about three or four inches,we had to do this on a Sonoma,so it is possible u have to do the same thing,call the nearest dealership and they will tell u for sure.
These can REALLY stick solidly in place. I usually get them off with one of two methods: A big slide hammer attached to the wheel studs using a hub adapter or by pushing against one of the hub mounting bolts using my biggest air hammer with a flat hammer bit in it. You will wreck the head of the bolt doing this so you need to have another one on hand if it comes to that. I turn the bolt nearly all the way back in so there is just an 1/8" of room between the head of the bolt and the steering knuckle [to provide the maximum thread surface on which the force will be applied] and then rattle on it with the air hammer unit it moves a bit. You may need to move this bolt around to the other holes to work the hub free. Clean the corrosion and rust out of the bore that the hub mounts in before installing the new hub so it will go back in properly. Hope this helps a bit and good luck!
Remove the pan. Remove the filter. Unplug the solenoids. Unbolt the valve body. I would suggest you by a book, There are check-balls above the valve body that need to be in the exact right spot. 3 of the valve body bolts need to be in a certain spot and the bolts need to be torqued to 100 inch lbs.
Remove the bolts around the tranny pan, leaving the forward two or three in but loose. The seal is RTV so it will stay on until you break it loose. Once the pan is loose and the fluid is drained off a bit, remove the two or three remaining bolts and the pan. The filter snaps into place on the valve body. Pop the filter loose, more fluid will fall, and clean the pan and sealing surface. Reinstall the filter, use RTV sealer on the pan and reinstall. The only real danger to be aware of is the four quarts of fluid splashing uncontrollably on you as you break the pan loose. I hope this helps.