I (myself) changed the AC compressor for two times already [Part #: AC Delco Part # 15-20456 (Orifice, A/C Condenser Tube, part # 15-5378 & Refrigerant Oil using 88901445, part # 15-118)]. Now, I think I will change it again because that same noise (grinding sound) is audible again. Is there any product quality problem reported on this AC compressor? I flushed the whole AC system already for many times and I changed also the Receiver Drier. Any more suggestions or experiences you have? Please share it to me? Thanks!
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When you say it is locking up, do you mean that the pulley stops spinning completely while the motor is still running? (this might cause the serpentine belt to burn, come off, or the car to stall or shudder badly)
If so, chances are that either the compressor has already failed completely, OR inside your A/C system is a part called an Orifice tube. This is basically a small filter in the A/C tubing that is supposed to catch small particles and keep them from going into the cooler/evaporator in the cabin of the car. If this little part get's totally clogged, it will cause a back up of pressure and lock the compressor up. This is something that has to be serviced by a shop with specialized tools. DIY on a/c is a bad idea as these systems are SUPER sensitive (even the humidity in the air can ruin parts if you do the job slowly and without the right tools).
If this is your problem, it will likely mean several new parts minimum for your a/c system. If you can afford it, the best bet is to take it to a professional a/c shop. If the compressor has already started to fail and there is metal in the lines, then you may need to replace the whole a/c system as it is very difficult to flush all the metal particles from all the lines and the other parts and any left over metal shavings from a broken compressor will just break the next one as well.
If there is no metal in the lines and the compressor is still in good shape and just the orifice tube is clogged, then you may have caught this in time. You then might have to replace the accumulator/dryer, the orifice tube, and the Freon. The accumulator has a chemical drier in it that if it breaks down is what may travel downline and clog the orifice tube/filter. These 3 parts MAY be a fix for you. Best of luck!
Did you add the correct amount of oil to the compressor? Is it overcharged? Did you evacuate all the air with a vacuum pump before charging? Was the fixed orifice replaced? If you are sure you did the install right and the oil and charge are correct you have another defective compressor
The compressor is bad. I have the same problem. Apparently none of the tahoe's compressors are worth a ****! im having to replace mine too. You have to change the compressor, the accumulator/dryer, orifice tube and flush the lines. If you look on ebay you can buy a complete kit to change it all for about 300 bucks. The dealership tells me that you need to change the fan clutch as well. They told me that the reason for the noises is the fan clutch isnt working properly and it lets the compressor get too hot causeing higher pressures in the compressor due to the heat. They called it liquid slugging I believe. Mine doesnt break the belt but when you give it very much gas it makes a squeal and then a grinding noise like your trying to put a standard transmission in gear with it running without pushing in the clutch. I asked if you could just change the fan clutch and they told me no its too late, you have to change the compressor and dryer/orifice tube.
The corvettes have this unit in them same problems.
Noisy compressors most of the time this comes from
improper installiation. either of the compressor its self or the clutch( which could be a paint to do with or w/o the tool). The other problems I've found with the R4's is the tech overfills them with oil and lastly the tension of the belt it spins off of is either too loose or too tight. Check all of this out before going for another compressor.