Not starting! 98 s10 -2.2 4 cylinder. the truck cranks over gets spark checked the fuel pump, pressure is what its supposed to be. no bad codes according to code reader. get good gas pressure through the rail that leads to injectors.everything i've checked says it should start but doesn't. when you first try it after its set for a couple of hours it tries to start for half a second. if u spray starter fluid direct through the throttle body it pops and tries? I'm baffled any advice appreciated
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Re: not starting!
Check and see if the Injectors are firing. Disconnect one of the injectors and use a test light and paperclip. Put the paperclip in one of the disconnected injector connectors terminals, clip the testlight to the paperclip. Now touch the tip of the testlight to the other terminal in the same connector DON'T LET THE TWO TOUCH TOGOTHER AT ANY TIME!! Have someone crank the engine the light should blink if so good Now do it to the other three I have seen a bad computer that was only firing two injectors,
If its the computer you cannot just go and buy a used one and pop it in they are programmed to the vehicles VIN # you will go to the Chevy Dealer to have the program uploaded into the PCM in the truck
Please give me a fixya f you think this information is helpful Thanks Randy
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wont crank or cranks fast but will not start???????????????
2door or 4 doors? (wired diffr they are)
its an old car, and most fail this old. "entropy"
first off, 3 things must be good on this old engine.
1: compression. at above 150 psi, 180 warm not 80.
if compression is low an all 4 cylinders (G16b engine) the cam belt slipped, do to owers not changing belt at 60,000 miles !
2: bad spark, test for spark at all 4 cylinder yet? if bad spark
use a scan tool and see why, cranking for 5 seconds. P03xx errors?
at this point the engine runs on test fuel. does it?
3: bad fueling , too much or too little or none)
is engine flooding, spark tips wet,
no dry, and test fuel runs car for 3 seconds.
ok that means the pump is dead, or weak
caused by (again a real 60k tuneup skipped, the filter)
replace filter. omg got 30psi pump pressure,
lets say pump pressure is still weak, lets say 15psi, (failed)
i check pump voltage cranking, omg, got 8v. the wires
behind left rear tail light (2door) pink wires or ground there bad.
ok got 12vdc to pump. but is weak
i then check FPR, fuel pump reg on fuel rail. i find it is stuck wide open, a new FPR gets pressure to 30 running and 40 not running.
no the FPR is ok, the pump is bad. (last, pumps is last in my book as the work is long and hard, and why do that if , its not bad. as most all seem to do on forums.)
no start has 50 causes.
see scotty do the TEST FUEL test.
what does getting mean? which engine, 4Liter or 5.2 or what?
spark at all cylinders is getting and timed right?
runs on test fuel so sparks good, that means fuel is bad
or flooding or too little fuel.
code 12 cranking for 5 seconds, means sensors are ok.
why replace parts that make spark when sparks good, it run on test fuel, why worry spark.? and not just fueling.?
now lets do fuel, step one is fuel pressure, not squirt tests.or dribble test. a real tool called,a fuel pressure gauge that works, and nothing else, (unless rail is dry and now we know its not)
if all spark plug tips are dry, are they?
then its not injecting, (the ECU can cut injection for 2 reasons) ask
or there is no real pressure.
so we open the FSM and read page FUELING
49psi is idle pressure, (more cranking with so little vacuum)
How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? Some dodge vehicles you can get mil codes, not sure about your year? It won't hurt to try, turn key just till dash lites come on, no further, cycle the key on--off, on--off, on. Then the mil on the dash starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes.
Also, when the problem is ongoing have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure, not only check for correct fuel pressure check that the pressure will hold for a bit, with everything off.
Sometimes with idle issues, I check the idle air system.
A fuel pump problem should affect all of the cylinders. It would be easy enough to check by using a fuel pressure gauge.
Code 303 means cylinder 3 is not producing power, so it could be fuel, compression, or spark.
Its possible the pressure in the tank is changing somehow, but I would expect to find the real problem has nothing to do with the fuel level in the tank.
Could even be something like a bad spot on the cam or crank causing the engine computer to not get a signal to fire that cylinder sometimes.
Or a problem with the EGR valve or some other vac issue.
no starts. cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.
ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)
5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.
this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.
No sounds like after it gets hot one of the 5 is going out Cam or crank sensor or fuel pump or fuel rail pressure regulator or fuel pump solenoid take it to autozone for free code reading get back to me.
Check fuel pressure,spark.If no spark possible crank sensor or ignition module.If no fuel pressure tap the bottom of the fuel tank with a mallet while someone is cranking the vehicle if it starts then you will need a fuel pump.Also if you have spark and fuel but the engine feels like it bucking while turning over,take a hair dryer and heat the coils up.you may have a bad coil pack.After they get warmed it night then start as the coil resistance changes.
Check if there is spark to each cylinder. If not, check crank shaft position sensor if no spark at all. If spark in some cylinders but not all, then check coil packs.
If spark is good, check that you have sufficient fuel pressure. You can use a fuel pressure tester or place a rag over the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail, press in on the valve and see if there is pressure in the fuel rail. A tester would be more accurate.
Is it not getting spark or gas? It needs both to run. Both main source. If no spark in any cylinder, then ignition module or crank sensor is likely faulty. If no gas, then fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump or fuel pump relay is bad.