After a tune up car starts better than perfect, after a second try it didn't
Last Sunday I replaced the spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX), wires (super
conductor 8.5 mm), rotor and rotor cap (these from MSD Ignition) all OE
parts, I didn't disconnect the battery (upss??), after this I turned the
engine on and the engine started perfect, very fast did start, it did run for 45
seconds and I turned it off, after that I closed the hood and I tried
again to start it, and it didn't, I've checked all fuses even disconnect
the battery for 2 hr, and nothing, it doesn't start. The starter works
well but the engine doesn't start, and not sure what to do, any idea???. My car is a Vtec, Dohc, B16a3 engine
Thank very much for your time and help.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.
Re: After a tune up car starts better than perfect, after...
It's most likely going to be in something you changed out. I would start by checking for any loose connections. Any connection you may have forgotten to reconnect or may have knocked loose. Then the cap and rotor. The rotor for proper seating, and the cap for cracks. I've had some brand new caps that had a hairline crack straight out of the box, after the initial start or warming up a bit, the crack widened and created a no start. Start here and let me know.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Annie, go to any chain auto parts store and give them your State Vehicle registration form. They can obtain the VIN from it and find the best plugs for your Ford. I recommend NGK or DENSO Iridium plugs, so can simply forget about changing plugs for 80K miles or so. If you've never replaced plug wires, it's probably a good time to do that now as well. Distributor and rotor as well, if fitted.
You do not have to many options for these cars. You can you use Bosch WR7DC which are like a copper plug, or if you can find them, you may have to order them online, NGK Iridium IX plugs work really well. Thats what I had in my 944T along with a MSD Blaster 2 coil I picked up and a set of plug wires I bought from Lindsey Racing when I bought the plugs.
I've never found there to be any performance differences for the Accord using copper core plugs versus iridium. The iridium plugs cost substantially more, but last longer. They are more reliable.
However, if you are looking for such things as better performance, then the best potential rests on the copper core type. If you've modified the car such as added a turbo or supercharger, copper plugs are best. The reason for that is that copper core plugs have a lower heat range than iridium. Heat range is in reference to how quickly the electrode cools after the spark has fired. Copper dissipates heat faster than iridium. In your cylinder you want the only fuel ignition source to be the spark and never anything else...such as the end of a spark plug that is still hot enough to ignite your fuel without the spark plug firing. A copper plug is least likely to do this.
Iridium or platinum plugs are recommended for the car. The Iridium are a little more costly, but not terribly so. The NGK -Ix-Iridium plug is the one that I would use. It is available at most parts stores and go for about $7 apiece. Hope this helped and best wishes.
Super easy to do but I wouldn't replace the wires unless you know one is malfunctioning (very rare and the stock wires are fine 100k+). For the plugs I'd recommend not going with the bosch plugs, if you really want platinum pick up a set of the ngk or the factory delcos (ngk makes the oem plugs). Here are some part #'s, you can just call a napa with the stock # and they should have them, I'm guessing you have a 00+ tahoe with a 4.8/5.3? They all work the same for any of the lsx truck motors. 2003 CHEVROLET TAHOE 5.3 V8 T FI Spark Plug_________Part No.____Stock No.___Plug Gap V-Power___________TR5_______2283______.040 G-Power___________TR5GP_____3186______.040 Laser Platinum______PTR5D-10___3784______.040 OE Laser Iridium_____ITR5F13____6044______.040 Iridium IX __________TR5IX______7397______.040
Plugs are really easy to do, just get a few angles and a few length extensions for a 3/8" ratchet and it will be done in no time. Take your time and be careful not to drop the plugs make sure you screw the plugs in by hand first, and after a couple of turns you can put the socket/wrench on there. Good luck and hope this helps.
This problem is usually very easy to fix, depending on prior modifications to the car. This usually is related to a condition called spark blow out. You can start by replacing the spark plug wires with granatelli spark plug wires. They're cheap, and the best ive found. I had swapped my original wires to magnecor wires and the problem got worse. Go with the Granatelli wires....cheaper, and work better. Also change your spark plugs to The ngk copper spark plugs. I've personally had very little luck with the iridium plugs, however some people really like them. The gap should be around .030
The last remaining option at that point, if this still hasnt completely fixed the problem, would be to replace the stock ignition coil with the available msd ignition coil. This is only usually necessary when running much higher than stock boost levels.