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Re: connect to ignition
Hi what you need is an led that has a resistor in it without the resistor it will just burn out leds also need the wires connecting positve to the positive side of the led or it won,t light up if its connected back to front then remove the lower cowl around the steering wheel and get a tester on the back of the ignition switch wires until you find out which is the ignition on wire [live] and it goes off when switch is off connect to this wire the other wire that comes from the led just goes to ground yates210456
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Won't start how ? When you turn the ignition key to the start position ,does anything happen ? Meaning ,does the engine crank - no start an run or a no crank - no start ? Highly dough the computer . Battery good ? connections good ? The two different no start conditions require different testing .
Does the battery light work when you switch the ignition on? This provides a live feed to the alternator via the ignition bulb, the rotor needs a live feed to start the charge process, if the bulb has blown it won't charge (thin wire connected to the IND on the alternator). To check for a power drain, disconnect the negative battery lead put a AMP meter in series, (DON'T TRY TO START, YOU WILL BLOW THE METER). If you get a reading above 0.05amps (clock) you have a drain, pull the fuses one at a time and watch for a drop in the meter reading. Hope this helps.
Is the battery ignition light coming on when you turn the key on. Wiring for an alternator is quite simple, the 60amp cable (thick wire) is a direct feed to the battery. The thin wire (normally blue) connected to the 'ing' terminal gets a live feed via the battery ignition light. if the bulb has blown or this wire is not connected, the alternator will not charge. If you can, use a 12v 5watt test light connected to the battery, start the engine and touch the 'ing' terminal. this should prove and energies the alternator to start charging.
Only needs two wires, run a 40 amp cable from the large terminal on the alternator marked +, direct to the positive terminal on the battery or to the battery supply feed to the starter (which ever is easier). Then run a wire from the terminal marked 'ind' to a 5watt bulb, other side of the bulb needs to be wired to an ignition live feed. That's makes it the charge indication light. You need to fit this light, without it the alternator will not charge!!!! Light will come on when you switch the ignition on, and go out when the engine is started. Put a volt meter across the battery, should get a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts with engine running. Good Luck.
get a12 volt test light (autozone or any part store) . disconnect negative battery. connect light between negative terrminal of batteryand negitive cable if light lights something is useing battery power remove bulbs lighting hood and trunk until test light does not light disconect anything electrical until the test light goes out. if you disconnect alternater and it goes out replace alternator. if this was helpful please leave good feed back
An ignition switch supplies voltage to the ignition control module and/or the ignition coil. Often an ignition sytem thas two wires connected to the run terminal of the ignition switch. On is connected to the module. The other is connected to the primary resistor and coil. The start terminal of the switch is also wired to the module.
You can check for voltage using either a 12-volt test light or a digital multimeter (dmm).
To use a test light:
Turn the ignition key off and disconnect the wire connector at the module.
Disconnect the S terminal of the starter solenoid to prevent the engine from cranking when the ignition is in the run position.
Turn the key to the run position and probe the red wire connection to check for voltage.
Check for voltage at the battery terminal of the ignition coil using the test light.
Next, turn the key to the start position and check for voltage at the white wire connector at the module and the battery terminal of the ignition coil. If voltage is present, the switch and its circuit are okay.
To do the same test using a DMM:
Turn the ignition switch to the off position and back-probe, with the meter's positive lead, the power feed wire at the module.
Connect the meter's negative to a good ground at the distributor base.
Turn the ignition to the run or start position as needed, and measure the voltage.
The reading should be at least 90% of battery voltage.
easy to cure this one without spending a fortune ,take the dash out and disconnect the engine light bulb ,then where it sits in the support holder join a wire to each connection ,then put some insulating tape around the holder and jam bulb back into hole ,then with the two wires run one to earth ,now the clever bit ---- use a glow plug relay and connect it a ignition feed wire ,and the the wire that should run to the glow plugs you connect to the other wire on the engine light bulb ,then make sure it all works so when ignition is turned on the relay clicks in and the light is on ,then 10 secs afterwards it goes out ,now wrap it in foam so it cannot be heard clicking on and off and away you go to the inspection all happy knowing it will pass ,next car you buy will be a ford focus diesel with a manual gearbox will it not.???
Hello! Place a 1/4 watt, 50 ohm resistor in series with the +12 battery feed to the trailer LED brake lights...Each LED drops 3.6 Volts...You can run a maximum of 3 LED's per resistor...If you have more than 3 LED's run them in parallel with each set of 3...Each run of 3 requires it's own 50 ohm resistor...
If the brake light works, disconnect battery negative with ignition key ON and Radio ON, but engine OFF, four minutes after connect Battery terminal, do not panic if terminal sparks wile connecting, *** it well turn ignition key OFF, than start the motor and verify if problem remains