I drove on the autoroute for 9 kilometers, the radio was on and the air conditionning, I exit the autoroute and drove for 5 kilometers then stopped the car at a fruit stand. Then I could not start the car, the check engine, the abs ...went on then off. Absolutely no electricity completely dead: no light, no radio, ....An hour later, still no electricity, I had the car towed(110$) to my garage. This morning went to check the car, everything works OK. The car starts on the first shot.... electricity is back again.. What is the problem, please help me. Thanks

Flashing check engine light is a serious problem that can cause expensive damage to the catalytic converter. First, STOP DRIVING. Second, check the air filter. If it sucked in water, it'll be soaking wet and not letting enuf air through. If it's in good condition, get it towed to a shop. Don't drive it. Read this post

http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/flashing-check-engine-light/

Sounds like it's overheating although no idea of the cause. There may be an air duct for cooling it which is blocked/not getting airflow. Try SaabScene or one of the other Saab forums - someone there will probably be able to help you :)

Well you will have these fancy motors all singing and dancing electronics ,the only ones with the software to sort this out is the dealer iam afraid as electronics it is but what and how ?? ask a IT specialist

1. 5 Amp (Tan) - Instrument panel lights and lights-on reminder
2. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Choke heater
3. 30 Amp - Circuit Breaker. Power windows and sunroof
4. 10 Amp (Red) - Electronic control module
5. 25 Amp (White) - Heater and air conditioning
6. 20 Amp (Yellow - Stop and hazard lights
7. 25 Amp (white) - Windshield wipers
8. 10 Amp (Red) - Radio and cruise control
9. 30 Amp - Circuit Breaker. - Power door locks, seats and rear window defogger
10. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Courtesy lights, key warning chime, power antenna, horns, cigar lighter and clock
11. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Turn signals and back-up lamps
12. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Parking, side marker, license plate and tail lamps
13. 10 Amp (Red) - Warning lamps and buzzers, trunk release, torque converter clutch and vehicle
speed sensor
14. Not Used

Divide 75 kilometers by 7 1/2 liters to get 10 kilometers per liter.

Check the idle air control (IAC) sensor and the throttle position sensor(TPS).

Please review this article: Where's The Fuse?




1. 5 Amp (Tan) - Instrument panel lights and lights-on reminder
2. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Choke heater
3. 30 Amp - Circuit Breaker. Power windows and sunroof
4. 10 Amp (Red) - Electronic control module
5. 25 Amp (White) - Heater and air conditioning
6. 20 Amp (Yellow - Stop and hazard lights
7. 25 Amp (white) - Windshield wipers
8. 10 Amp (Red) - Radio and cruise control
9. 30 Amp - Circuit Breaker. - Power door locks, seats and rear window defogger
10. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Courtesy lights, key warning chime, power antenna, horns, cigar lighter and clock
11. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Turn signals and back-up lamps
12. 20 Amp (Yellow) - Parking, side marker, license plate and tail lamps
13. 10 Amp (Red) - Warning lamps and buzzers, trunk release, torque converter clutch and vehicle
speed sensor
14. Not Used

to see what you get for mileage, take it to a gas station and fill it till the pump stops and reset your trip meter. Drive it around like you normally would to work or whatever till the tank is almost empty and go fill it up again till the pump stops. Its best to go to the same pump you used before. Once it is full look to see how many gallons or liters you put in(This is how many you used since the last time you filled up). Take the number of miles/kilometers from your trip meter(the number of miles/kilometers you drove since you last filled up) and divide it by the gallons/liters you used and you will get your miles/kilometers per gallon/liter. Compare this with the rating your vehicle is suppose to get. But remember it can very depending on how you drive.
Miles/kilometers divided by gallons/liters

Have you check the O2 sensors? How baout cleaning the MAF and Throttle body? Thermostat?

How does the temp gauge look whn it stalls?

Hi, had the same problem today. Solution: Start engine, blower on max, air direction to cabin, press rear wiper and rear wash buttons simulanteously for 5 seconds (all lights now on steady). Calibration test starts and lights flsh alternately. After first test, AC and recurculation lights flash for the cool down test. If all test pass then rear wiper light blinks slowly (press to exit self test). If AC and recurculation test fails then just 2 lights stay on. To repeat this part of the test press just AC and rear wash simulanteously ( may take several attempts and usually best when engine is cold). Again exit by pressing the rear wiper button once it is the only one flashing (slow blink).

This does work but it took me 15 minutes to finally switch them off!!!