Question about 1997 Dodge Intrepid

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Engine cut off a while and return to work 2

Yesterday I already changed the coolant sensor, and the timing belt is OK. but I do not know what is the ISC, I am sure it is electrical problem, and 90% from electrical parts of the transmission, but tell now I could not find it. Also I have AutoXray 6000 it could not find a troble code. I already changed the fuel pump, the throttle position sensor, the MAP sensor, the crank position sensor, the cam shaft position sensor, the coil, the ideal motor, the spark plugs, the wires of the spark plugs,

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Could be vapor locking. See if the recall on the fuel rails has been complied with ( dealer can look it up by VIN). Also check the fuel pressure regulator, those have diaphram's wear out and cause problems.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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I have a 2002 Lincoln ls v8. It overheats after a short distance of driving it. I have replaced the thermostat. The fan comes on an it goes into engine protection mode fans come on but still overheats


Hi,

Given what you have already tried, here are some other things to look for or check:

1. The condition of the coolant - is it contaminated? When was the last time the system was flushed or cleaned?

2. The strength of the coolant protection - the coolant should contain anti-freeze protected to a minimum of -20F.

3. Is the coolant circulating? When the engine is COLD, you can remove the radiator cap (also check the cap). Let the engine warm up with the cap removed and see if the coolant is circulating through the top of the radiator - you may have to remove a little of the coolant to observe this. This will let you know if the water pump is working. Make sure the drive belt is ok.

4. Check for extra soft upper or lower radiator hoses. They can sometimes collapse internally although this doesn't happen frequently.

5. Check the A/C condenser and radiator for plugging or debris collection. Clean as needed.

6. A bad head gasket. They make a kit to check for the presence of carbon monoxide (CO) in the coolant. Try a local auto parts store.

7. Pull the dip sticks on the engine and the transmission. Look for excessive transmission fluid level and pink coloring (this indicates that the internal transmission cooling tank is ruptured). The transmission may be damaged.

8. Make sure the cooling fans are operating properly and coming on at the correct time. There could be a bad sensor or fan(s).

9. Check for any DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) from the OBD port.

10. A bad temperature sensor or gauge.

Aug 12, 2015 | Lincoln Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

My 94 Toyota Camry 4 cyl is running really rough and stalling out once the engine warms up


1. Error Code 24. Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
Solution:
Check the following:
- IAT Connector and wiring.
- Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
- ECM.
2. Rough Idling when the engine is hot.
The following are the reasons due to which the engine can perform bad when it is hot.
- Fuel pump control circuit.
- Fuel pump pressure.
- Fuel injectors.
- Non Return Valve clogged, located on the lower side of car chassis above the fuel tank.
- Engine compression, valve clearance, spark plugs.

Apr 14, 2014 | 1994 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Camshaft position sensor correlation bank 1 code


timing belt is off by a tooth or two. you probably didn\'t have to replace the coolant sensor; that code sets whenever the sensor is disconnected and the ignition is turned on; and it needs to be reset by disconnecting the battery or with a code reader. anyway, the crank/ cam sensors are out of sync. if you\'ve got the twin cam engine, they are a royal pain to get the belt to lay properly on the two cams.

Apr 15, 2013 | 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser Touring Hatchback

1 Answer

Coolant leak after a long run only, fan cuts in when engine is switched off and then coolant leaks from the timing belt cover area, have changed the pressure cap. car is a fiesta 2003 zetec 1.4


oh b*m! its a leaky water pump,,,that wont be cheep to fix,,,cam belt must come off so have a new belt fitted at the same time,,ok,,,it saves money in the long run?

Jun 29, 2010 | 2004 Ford Fusion

1 Answer

I have a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse w/ 2.0; I am going to change the water pump, took off the bracket that holds the engine to chassis support in front of timing cover. The bracket will not come off after...


The engines have 2 timing belts: One belt is the acceleration timing belt that drives the camshaft from the crankshaft. This belt also drives a balance shaft that must be correctly timed to avoid engine vibration (more on this below). The second belt, inboard of the timing belt, is the drive belt for the oil pump and a second balance shaft. Although this belt usually does not break, it should be replaced whenever the timing belt is replaced.
Tools Needed
The following tools are needed as a minimum:
Floor jack.
Jack stands.
Metric combination wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm.
Slotted & Phillips screwdrivers.
Wheel lug wrench.
Now the procedure is as follows:--
Park the car on a level surface. Raise the front off the ground and secure with jack stands.
Remove the drivers side front tire/wheel.
Remove the plastic panel inside the wheel well. This panel is secured to the chassis with some 12mm head bolts up in the wheel well and along the front radiator cross-member. There are also some plastic push fasteners that look like Phillips screws: Unscrew and pull out the plastic screw, and then pop the plastic retainer out of the panel. Keep the panel and hardware together and set aside.
Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan. Make sure you place it so that it does not damage the pan, or put some rags between the two. Raise the jack enough the support the engine.
Remove the drivers side engine bracket. There are 2 (14mm) head nuts on the forward side, and 2 (14mm) head bolts at the other end of the bracket. Once unbolted, remove the 2 nuts securing the engine mount through-bolt to the chassis, and remove the through-bolt after removing its (17mm) retaining nut. Keep all this hardware with the bracket as you pull it out and set it all aside.
Loosen the tension on the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioning compressor belts.
Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump by removing the (4) 10mm head bolts.
Remove the harmonic balancer/pulley from the crankshaft by removing the (4) 10mm head bolts.
Remove the air conditioning belt tensioner bracket/assembly on the 2.0 engines by removing the (3) 12mm attach bolts.
FOR more detailed help:--
Mitsubishi Eclipse 1998 Repair Guide 
Engine
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Relieve the fuel system pressure.
If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and inter-cooler. 
If equipped with AWD, remove the trans axle and transfer case. 
Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jun 11, 2010 | Mitsubishi Eclipse Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2000 jetta overheating. changed thermostat and that wasn't the problem. i was told my water pump was out


I doubt that the water pump would be faulty:- go through this checklist first. I assume motor tune or other mechanical condition is not causing the problem.
When engine running, ensure no engine combustion gas bubbles in coolant resevoir (if so, the head gasket is blown).

Check radiator cooling fans are operating ok (as required when car warms up) - if not check
1) fuse,
2) relay operation,
3) heat sensor switch.

Check for collapsing (soft) coolant hose on suction side of waterpump when engine revs above idle.
Check the coolant pressure cap is serviceable & of correct rating,
Ensure cooling system is correctly filled, bleed off any airlocks as necessary,
Check radiator cooling core is not blocked internally or externally.

Sep 29, 2009 | 2000 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

Engine cuts out while driving main dealer has already changed timing belt but fault occurred again after 2 weeks driving. Now no error code recorded by the ECU and fault is no longer presenting. Model type...


Hi,check for all the sensors on the engine,may be one has been disconnected ,the ECU will not record any fault,sensors can be disconnected ,due to,when the mechanic has changed the timing belt,look for it.Hope that solve your problem

Sep 10, 2009 | 2002 Nissan Quest

1 Answer

I AM SO FRUSTRATED HERE!!!!!


I see you did a lot of work.
I want to begin by describing how the radiator operator.
When you turn the engine on the water jacket around the engine cylinders heat up and move to the radiator. The water temperature control sensor regulate (turn it on and off) the fan. (You have change that temperature sensor) The next thing on the line is the Constant Control Relay Module. Constant Control Relay Module also is control by another sensor, Engine coolant temperature sensor. If either of these two things (CCRM or ECP) ares bad then you have to replace it. Did the fan spin? If the fan spin then it is OK.
When the coolant reach the correct temperature the the thermostat open and water go into the water jacket in the engine and cool it off. Turn on the car heater and see if it work. The goal is to get this system to work like it should.
If you can determine that every thing in the coolant system is working properly and it is still die out in 15 minutes.
You may want to look at he engine. Was the timing Belt ever broke. If it was change at the at a schedule maintenance time then that is OK. But if the timing belt was broke, you have to find if any damage was done in the engine.
I do hope this help you

Mar 17, 2009 | 1997 Ford Escort

1 Answer

I am trying to change coolant temp sensor


have you checked you fueses and relays?
the coolant sensor is located Under hood, driver side, rear engine area, mounted on intake manifold clearpixel.gif

Oct 27, 2008 | 1997 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Xterra repair


Since this is an intermittent problem, first try to determine if the problem arises due to one of these many intermittent problems:

* Vehicle vibration
* Heat sensitive
* Freezing
* Water intrusion
* Electrical load
* Cold or hot start up

If you can't isolate the cause of the intermittent problem, you can try adjusting the Idle Speed/Ignition Timing/Idle Mixture Ratio:

Idle Speed/Ignition Timing/Idle Mixture Ratio Adjustment

PREPARATION
1) Make sure that the following parts are in good order.

* Battery
* Ignition system
* Engine oil and coolant levels
* Fuses
* ECM harness connector
* Vacuum hoses
* Air intake system
* (Oil filler cap, oil level gauge, etc.)
* Fuel pressure
* Engine compression
* EGR valve operation (If so equipped)
* Throttle valve
* Evaporative emission system

2) On air conditioner equipped models, checks should be carried out while the air conditioner is OFF.
3) On automatic transmission equipped models, when checking idle rpm, ignition timing and mixture ratio,
checks should be carried out while shift lever is in “N” position.
4) When measuring “CO” percentage, insert probe more than 40 cm (15.7 in) into tail pipe.
5) Turn off headlamps, heater blower, rear defogger.
6) Keep front wheels pointed straight ahead.
7) Make the check after the cooling fan has stopped.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE

1 INSPECTION START
1. Visually check the following:
I Air cleaner clogging
I Hoses and ducts for leaks
I EGR valve operation (If so equipped)
I Electrical connectors
I Gasket
I Throttle valve and throttle position sensor operation
2. Start engine and warm it up until engine coolant temperature indicator points to the middle of gauge.
Ensure engine stays below 1,000 rpm.
3. Open engine hood and run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load.
4. Perform diagnostic test mode II (Self-diagnostic results).
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 2.
NG ' 1. Repair or replace components as necessary.
2. GO TO 2.

2 CHECK IGNITION TIMING
1. Run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load.
2. Rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed.
3. Turn off engine and disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector.
4. Start and rev engine (2,000 - 3,000 rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run at idle speed.
5. Check ignition timing with a timing light.
15°±2° BTDC (in “P” or “N” position)
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 4.
NG ' GO TO 3.

3 ADJUST IGNITION TIMING
1. Adjust ignition timing by turning distributor after loosening securing bolts.
2. Turn off engine and connect throttle position sensor harness connector to throttle position sensor.
' GO TO 2.


4 CHECK BASE IDLE SPEED
1. Check idle speed.
700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 6.
NG ' GO TO 5.

5 ADJUST BASE IDLE SPEED
1. Rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) 2 or 3 times under no-load then run engine at idle speed.
2. Adjust idle speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw.
700±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
' GO TO 6.

6 CHECK TARGET IDLE SPEED
1. Turn off engine and connect throttle position sensor harness connector.
2. Start and rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) 2 or 3 times under no-load then run at idle speed.
3. Check idle speed.
750±50 rpm (in “P” or “N” position)
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 9.
NG ' GO TO 7.

7 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Check IACV-AAC valve and replace if necessary.
2. Check IACV-AAC valve harness and repair if necessary.
3. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 9.

9 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR LH SIGNAL
1. Run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load.
2. Set “Left bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
3. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 12.
NG (MIL does not blink.) ' GO TO 17.
NG (MIL blinks less than 5 times.)
' 1. Replace front heated oxygen sensor LH.
2. GO TO 10.


10 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR LH SIGNAL
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Run engine at approx. 2000 rpm for approx. 2 minutes under no-load.
3. Set “Left bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
4. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' GO TO 13.
NG ' GO TO 11.

11 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Check fuel pressure regulator.
2. Check mass air flow sensor and its circuit.
3. Check injector and its circuit.
Clean or replace if necessary.
4. Check engine coolant temperature sensor and its circuit.
5. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 2.


13 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR RH SIGNAL
1. Set “Right bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
2. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' INSPECTION END
NG (MIL does not blink.) ' GO TO 16.
NG (MIL blinks less than 5 times.)
' 1. Replace front heated oxygen sensor RH.
2. GO TO 14.


14 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR RH SIGNAL
1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Run engine at approx. 2000 rpm for approx. 2 minutes under no-load.
3. Set “Right bank front heated oxygen sensor monitor” in the Diagnostic Test Mode II.
4. Make sure that MIL goes on more than 5 times during 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
OK or NG
OK ' INSPECTION END
NG ' GO TO 15.

15 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Check fuel pressure regulator.
2. Check mass air flow sensor and its circuit.
3. Check injector and its circuit. Clean or replace if necessary.
4. Check engine coolant temperature sensor and its circuit.
5. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 2.
16 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR RH HARNESS
1. Turn off engine and disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect ECM harness connector.
3. Disconnect front heated oxygen sensor RH harness connector.
4. Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 50 and front heated oxygen sensor RH harness connector.
Continuity should exist.
OK or NG
OK ' 1. Connect ECM harness connector.
2. GO TO 18.
NG ' 1. Repair or replace harness.
2. GO TO 9.

17 CHECK FRONT HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR LH HARNESS
1. Turn off engine and disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect ECM harness connector.
3. Disconnect front heated oxygen sensor LH harness connector.
4. Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 51 and front heated oxygen sensor LH harness connector.
Continuity should exist.
OK or NG
OK ' 1. Connect ECM harness connector.
2. GO TO 18.
NG ' 1. Repair or replace harness.
2. GO TO 9.

18 PREPARATION FOR “CO” % CHECK
1. Disconnect engine coolant temperature sensor harness connector.
2. Connect a resistor (4.4 kW) between terminals of engine coolant temperature sensor harness connector.
' GO TO 19.

19 CHECK “CO” %
1. Start engine and warm it up until engine coolant temperature indicator points to the middle of gauge.
2. Rev engine (2,000 to 3,000 rpm) two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed.
3. Check “CO” %.
Idle CO: 1.5 - 9%
After checking CO%,
a. Disconnect the resistor from terminals of engine coolant temperature sensor.
b. Connect engine coolant temperature sensor harness connector to engine coolant temperature sensor.
OK or NG
OK ' 1. Replace front heated oxygen sensor LH.
2. GO TO 10.
NG ' GO TO 20.

20 DETECT MALFUNCTIONING PART
Check the following.
1. Connect front heated oxygen sensor harness connectors to front heated oxygen sensors.
2. Check fuel pressure regulator.
3. Check mass air flow sensor and its circuit.
4. Check injector and its circuit.
Clean or replace if necessary.
5. Check engine coolant temperature sensor and its circuit.
6. Check ECM function by substituting another known good ECM.
(ECM may be the cause of a problem, but this is rarely the case.)
' GO TO 2.

Aug 17, 2008 | 2000 Nissan Xterra

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