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24 volt charging problems .2 12 volt batteries 1 battery 16volts and the other about 9-10 volts

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  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    wiring diagram for batterys

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A 12 volt battery is actually 13.2 volts fully charged. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage. The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.

Posted on Aug 19, 2008

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How to wire rhe batterys for 24 volts... Example pos. To pos. Or neg. To pos. Ther are two batterys 12 volts


if you want the same voltage but with increased capacity connect positive to positive and negative to negative on each successive battery ---connected in parallel
example 6 X 12 batteries each of 200 crank hours will be equal to 12 volts and 1200 crank hours ( good for mobile fridges , winches , battery hoists etc)
if you want to increase voltage in the bank then connect positive to negative for each successive battery ---connected in series
for example
with 6 X 12 batteries of 200 crank amps you will have 6 times the 12 volts which equals 72 volts and the current flow is increase from 200 crank amps to exceed the 1200 crank amps because of the electrical principles and formula I think it works out to be around 72 times the 200 crank amps ( I am sure that there are mathematicians out there that will adjust the sum to make it correct)
However I think that you get the idea
when charging batteries it is always positive to positive with the battery leads to the first battery in the bank and the difference is if in parallel the charger has to be big enough the charge at the accepted rate of the batteries ( 12 volts charge at 14.5 volts and around 20 amps an drop back as the batteries charge
when the batteries are in series it all changes and best talk with a good battery supplier as to how it is set up and if you need to change the charging circuit and equipment

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W crank


An unloaded reading of 10 Volts on a 12 Volt car battery is considered dead. There are 6 cells in a typical lead acid (car) battery - each provides 2 volts. They are internally connected in series to provide 12 volts on the + and - posts. If one is cell shorted out - you'd see 10 volts if fully charged. Trickle charge the battery for 24 hours and measure voltage again. If 12 volts, bring it to be load tested. that will tell you the true state of the battery.

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I have a 97 escort, it has been sitting for a while so when i went to start it, no battery charge. Once i boosted it, it ran no problem, if you turn car off and try to start again, no charge. I left...


The first thing to do would be to put the battery on a slow or trickle charge for about 24 hours. It may be worn down enough from sitting that it needs to be revitalized. This should do it if the battery is still good. While it is charging, clean up all your cable ends and terminals to bare shiny metal. Do the battery, starter and alternator and the grounds in the engine compartment. Once the battery is charged up try it again. If the car will only start once or try to start once and need to be boosted, you will need a new battery. If it starts and runs repeatedly, then get the output checked on the alternator. A new one should charge at 14-14.5 volts but as long as it shows better than 12 volts it should be okay. Also when you are testing it, turn all your accesories on, radio, heater, A/C operate power accessories and watch to see how the alternator handles the load. The needle on your meter will bounce a little but should come back to where it was. If it doesn't then you will need to replace it as well. Hope this helps.

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If you are measuring Voltage after the engine is running, the Regulator is bad and allowing too much Voltage in the system which can burn out about anything designed for 12 Volts. It would not be much of a factor for the Glowplug Relay though, because it should shut off before you crank your truck. So in theory you would not be generating 16 Volts while the Relay was working.

You can get a free load test on the Batteries and the Starter at Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance autoparts. Ask for a charging system test. Some Walmart stores will test, but I do not know if it is free.

I hope my solution is very helpful in providing you some items to check to cure your problem.

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On some of the older style GM's you can take that brown wire and cut it and take the end leading from the alternator and hook it directly to the hot terminal on the alternator and just leave it hooked up and it will work. But I have ran into the occasional problem where leaving it hooked up will drain the battery when the vehicle isn't running. Hope this helps..

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