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Re: f150 will not charge
Hello first thing make sure alt is the right amp output for vehicle have alt rechecked i have seen new ones bad before if passes check wiring at the alternator bad contact inside pigtail plug also main power wire for bad end also check batterey cables for oxidized ends if aftermarket ends with nut and bolt check wire for heating up oxidation if so cut back install new cable ends goodluck
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Lisa I'M sorry to say their isn't any fuse or fuses that can correct problems with our alterator.Their is what is called a fuseable line witch is basicaly reistance wire that will burn out if over loaded .However you would have nothing even with a new battery NO CRANKING.
The ALT .uses diodes it is AC alternating currant unlike DC direct current..The diodes olny allow the currant to flow in 1 derection and uses a voltage regulator to allow the systems that are DC the battery to charge and at the same time other systems that run on AC voltage to work as well .
Your best bet is to talk it to somebody who you trust and test what you get at the battery with the vehicle running if it reads 14 volts at the top of the battery DC then the ALT IS GOOD , Check the BAT , at this point with the NEGITIVE cable off the BAT. It should read at least 12 volts DC on a 20 volt Dc scale.
But likely it is the alternator
First make sure both battery cables are free of corrosion and ground is secured to chassis and engine then check to see if theres an alt. fuse or bat. fuse blown. Another way to test charging sys w\out an meter is to remove the ground terminal from the bat. with the car running, if the alt. is good car stays running, if all else fails take the alt and bat to a parts store that will test them for free
You need to fully charge the battery and load test it, then check the charging system and alternator drive belt for tightness. do not remove cable when running or it can harm the charging system...ok on older cars, no longer good practice. Quick check of charge system can be done with volt meter across the battery. Volts should read between 13 and 14volts and not drop over time. With all lights, heater etc on volts should be better than 12.5 (usually above 13 and again, not drop with time.
should charge at more like 14.2 volts running. Don't know what year it is ,diag on a chrysler product is usually simple.Earlier firewall mounted regulator ? ground the striped wire (white,green stripe I think)Should charge like 15-18 volts with the wire grounded Later engines the regulator is in the alternator. Have to change it.
Needs to charge harder than 13.5 tho.
I doubt it is the link. The only way to kill a battery that fast is a huge short. Your wires should be smoking. Is the alternator wire shorted? I have some short troubleshooting tips, but I'm not sure they would work on such a big short--it really should be almost obvious. The tips are here: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5925550-dead_battery_troubleshooting .These are generic instructions. Let me know if you have more questions.
CODE 43 IS ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL -.KNOCK SENSOR.LOOKS LIKE ALTERNATOR NOT PUTTING OUT ENOUGH VOLTS TO CHARGE BATTERY.YOU NEED 13.5 TO 14.5 VOLTS.CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND ELECTRICAL WIRES.MAKE SURE BELTS NOT SLIPPING.IF ALL IS GOOD.REMOVE ALTERNATOR.LET AUTO ZONE CHECK IT.TO MAKE SURE.TURN OFF RADIO BEFORE MOVING BATTERY CABLES.SO YOU WONT LOSE RADIO CODE.YOUR CAR IS NOT GOING TO RUN RIGHT IF THE ECM DONT RECEIVE 12 VOLTS OR 13 VOLTS.