REAR HATCH WILL NOT UNLOCK HOW CAN I GET IN TO CHECK WIRES
I have the exact same problem. The rear hatch handle will not open the door even after I have unlocked it...unfortunately, it is a problem just sometimes....which is even worse. I took it into a dealer and it just so happened that is was working that day, and he said he couldn't fix it until it was completely useless. Is there something I can check easily and possibly fix myself?
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Re: 2002 FORD ESCAPE
First check if the fuse is blown out or loosely placed in the fuse box and check for any loose connectors in the car: TO check the complete wiring you need to have service manual .. Please use this link to get one:
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Won't open with the key ? Do all the other doors lock an unlock ? You have to understand the electronics involved , you have a remote keyless entry module an all switches are an input to the (RKEM) , an from the voltage input it knows what door to open or unlock or lock . First you would need a wiring diagram to test the circuit an you need to pull the inside panel off the rear hatch to get at the motor to see if the power is getting to it. Can be a very time consuming job. Here check out this video ,it's not the same vehicle as yours but it will give you an idea of what's involved . 2008 2012 Ford Escape Liftgate Latch Won Open Access Diagnosis Repair
Bad lock actuator: (NOTE: If your hatch is locked)
First remove rear panel- pull the plastic panel at the top center, until (2)clips pop off, then pop (2) more clips at the mid-center. Stick your arm down until you reach the lock, with your fingers, feel for the squishy plastic( inside is the bar that goes up to unlock), it is attached to the lever to unlock. Pull up the lever until you can open the hatch. There are four more clips at the top sides and middle sides, and four plastic screws at the bottom which is only accessible when the hatch is opened.
The lock is only sold as an assembly at $100.
Part Number #9L8Z-7843150 B
My back hatch would not open but it appears the lock was sticking and the return spring to the handle is broken. We used the key to unlock the back door and then door opened. Then husband sprayed WD 40 in all the lock holes. Now once we open the door we have to push the handle back down as return spring is still missing but the door opens :) . My van is a 2002 Ford Windstar.
A fuse does not operate the rear hatch, neither does the remote, the remote only unlocks the mechanism, so you can use the handle to open it. The only way to open the hatch if it will not open is to drill out the lock and ruin the linkage, in order to manually move the linkage.
The liftgate consists of the following components:
liftgate door lock actuator
liftgate lock cylinder (if equipped)
liftgate window glass
liftgate window latch/ajar switch
liftgate window glass release handle
liftgate latch remote control which consists of the following component:
liftgate release handle
liftgate latch, which consist of the following component:
liftgate latch door ajar switch
Liftgate Latch Actuator
Removal and Installation
Remove the liftgate latch remote control. For additional information, refer to Liftgate Latch Remote Control in this section.
SECTION 501-14: Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems
2001 Escape Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Removal and Installation
Remove the liftgate trim panel.
Disconnect the liftgate ajar switch electrical connector.
Disconnect the liftgate latch actuating rod.
Open the clip.
Disconnect the actuating rod.
Remove and discard the liftgate latch bolts.
Remove the liftgate latch.
NOTE: Make sure the liftgate latch release rod is not preloading the latch. It should be clipped in a relaxed state with no slack. NOTE: Position the liftgate latch release rod by pushing outboard to remove the slack.
It is the rear door lock actuator. It controls the window and hatch lock. Unfortunately the actruator is a dealer item and Ford does not sell the actuator by itself. You have to putchase the entire latch assembly whic comes with the actuator. It will run you about $150 for parts.
Climb into the cargo area. The plastic panel is secured by 4 screws accessible only from the bottom edge of the hatch as well as about 10 clips. The object is to get your fingertips between the glass and the panel and pull inward (toward front of vehicle). The clips will pop loose if you pull hard enough. Once you have the panel pulled away, look for a whitish box with a plunger coming out the top of it. Move the plunger with your finger. I believe when locked, the plunger is out, and unlocked, the plunger is in. I believe you will find the solenoid coil has burned out and will need to be replaced. I can't believe Ford was so cheap to not include some sort of mechanical release like Chevy did on the Corvette hatch. I read this solution on another site yesterday and put it to the test tonight on my daughter-in-laws 2001 Escape, so I know it works. I don't think the later years are much different.