. What should be the resistance and on which of the four pins. Sevice manual NO HELP. ECU has some burnt caps, but all other components check out ok...coil. condensor, power trans. New wires and plugs, but gets no spark. Just quit running with no restart. Any help greatly appreciated Ed
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The fuel pump relay has four pins. Two pins relate to low power switch circuit from the ECU and the other pins relate to the high current switched circuit which has a permanent power in and switched power out (to fuel pump). Check that the ground on the lower switch circuit pins is good and then check that when the ignition key is in the 'on' position that the low power switch pin has 12.6ish volts supplied to it. If there is no low power switching supply then the relay cannot function. If there is low power supply but no voltage switch on the output then the issue sounds like the relay itself. Pull the relay out and check that it clicks when 12v is dropped across the low circuit pins. Check the resistance across the high current output circuit pins when the low pins are given 12 volts. As 12 volts is applied across the low voltage pins the resistance across the high current output pins should drop to near zero as the internal contacts are closed. As the low side voltage is removed the high side pin resistance should once again register open circuit (infinite resistance). If the relay clicks but fails to output then either replace the relay or open it up and get a nail file and draw it between the contact pins to remove any corrosion.
On the a340e transmission that would be a shift solenoid circuit malfunction. You can purchase a "solenoid kit" that comes with two solenoids and mounting bracket, they can be easily replaced by dropping the transmission pan. They are attached with a single bolt (10mm)---Remove the bolt, unplug them from
the wiring harness and pop them out of the ports they are seated in. Lightly
coat the o-rings of the new solenoids with some ATF and insert them into their ports. Good luck, i hope this helps.
Would seem to indicate a faulty coolant sensor. If the sensor is mistakenly triggering the cooling radiator fan to come on then it most likely that it telling the ECU in error that the engine is at running temperature. When the engine is cold at start up the coolant sensor is supposed to inform the ECU of that fact. The ECU then sets a longer injection time to enrich the fuel/air mix to keep the engine running. As the engine warms the ECU responds to the coolant sensor signals by shortening and therefore leaning the fuel air mix. Your engine is stalling due to there not being enough fuel at idle at low temperatures.
Check the connections to the sensor, they should be clean and free of corrosion (do not confuse the sensor with the temperature sender connected to the indicator on the dashboard; the sender has only one wire to the top of it). Check that there is continuity between the coolant pins. If it has four pins then the pair of pins diagonally opposed are on the same circuit. If there is a break (infinite resistance) then replace the sensor. You can check the sensor function by removing it and measuring its electrical response when its tip is put in hot water; generally the hotter it is the lower its resistance, with one pair of pins being about half the resistance of the other pair. As it cools the sensor increases its resistance. failure to see this indicates that a new sensor is required