Question about 2000 Jeep Cherokee

4 Answers

CLUNK IN REAR

I eliminated the rear clunk when traveling over bumps by replacing the rear ball joint. However i still receive a loud clunk from which sounds like the rear. When the jeep slows to a stop and when i go to take off. Traveling down the road it runs fine no noise. But stop and go traffic it sounds bad.

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  • Myscore123 Oct 22, 2008

    If the upper control or Wishbone bushings are bad could it cause wheel hop? If I accelrate hard from a dead stop the rear wheels jump around. It looks like the rear end is twisting up causing a mis-alignment with the driveshaft. It's a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo. I just want to make sure my theroy is correct. If not any ideas? Thanks

  • Anonymous Oct 26, 2008

    Same thing, basically. When accelerating from a dead stop or occasionally when stopping, it feels like something grabs and then lets go or just grabs. This has started within the last week or so.

    I've only owned this 2000 Jeep Cherokee sport for less than a year and I'm praying it's nothing severe. I love my Jeep. :(


  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    2001 buick lesabre problemsMy buick has been running with loud noise like almost grindingNow it's clunking, spurting and going off at idle.Can run after it gets past 25-30 m/hr. but when have to stop does the sputter thing and if not revved up will go off will a jump.Help!Thanks,Sue

  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

    its not a bad clunk but something is wrong

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There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

  • tekmjr25 Jan 14, 2011

    You are the man! That was the best explaination I have ever seen. I do all my own work on my WJ and you explained the possibilites of the rear clunk better than anybody, on any site, I have ever looked at. Thank you for spending the time to bless us with your knowledge.

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I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X. There is a problem with the assembly of the drivetrain which causes the ball and pinion joint to completely shatter, if not rectified your vehicle will be immobilized at best. Worst case scenario it completely goes out while driving, causing a wreck. I have replaced mine once and am currently doing so again.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

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Perhaps check your universals. could be on ther way out. they just dont build anything tough anymore.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

If you hear a thump or a clunk from the center or rear of the driveline when coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop, it's likely you need to replace one or more u-joints in the driveshaft. You can check to see if the u-joints are bad by looking for any obvious damage or contamination; you can also attempt to wiggle them and see if there is any play. Even if they do "check out," they could still be defective. They are inexpensive to purchase and any auto parts store with a machine shop will remove the old ones and press the new ones in for a minimal charge--you just have to drop the drive line and bring it in (this is a relatively simple procedure; get a service manual or read on the Internet). A 4X4 Cherokee has a minimum of four u-joints--two in the front and two in the back. I would try replacing the rear joints first. This is a great place to start--much cheaper than looking into your transmission, transfer case, or differentials. I have a '99 Cherokee that had a similar problem. After spending a lot of time rebuilding brake and suspension components, I finally turned to the driveline. U-joints solved my problem.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

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