The engine rocks realy bad when started. The timing belt marks (I and E) on crank face each other perfectly, crank on mark, and #1 piston all the way up. New spark plugs and set at 1-3-4-2. A fuel injector that had a cracked plactic cover replaced (getting desperate), new air filter, MAF cleaned, no check engine lights. Exhaust system checked for leaks and tighted. No intake leak. There are vacuum lines not connected by the timing belt cover. One has a blue dot, one has an orange dot, and one has a yellow dot. Under the car there is another one with a red dot. None are connected and book doesn't help on where they connect. Could that be the problem?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has achieved Level 3.
Re: Mystery 1996 Mazda 626
Well you have good compression so your cylinders are OK.
I cannot help you with the vacuum hoses, but, try and plug them because if they are sucking air they will make the mixture weak and that will cause the engine to run badly.
To be honest if it is rocking about as much as you say then I would suggest it is only running on three cylinders. If you are happy with the sparkplugs and HT leads then it has to be a fuel problem, the injector with the broken plastic part? are you sure its operating correctly?
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
4 hours ago - how to replace the timing belt on a 1994 mazda 929 3.0 dohc 24 valve... I have a 2000 Mazda 626 4cyl 2.0 liter DOHC engine replacing the timing belt, what ... 2004 6s, 3l. where is the canister purge valve solenoid located?
4 hours ago - where are the timing marks on a 1994 mazda 929 3.0l - Mazda Cars ...1994 Mazda E2000 Cam Timing Mark Positions to Replace Timing Belt ... on a 1994mazda v6 dohc 24 valve engine How to align the timing mark on the ...
First pull the timing belt tensioner then slip the belt off the cam gears. You then need to find TDC (Top dead center). 3 ways to find TDC 1) There are marks on the crank pulley align them for TDC. 2) Remove timing cover and use crank gear mark seen in link below 3) Put the dip stick in cylinder 1 and turn engine until dip stick stops going up. After finding TDC align cam gear marks seen in link below. Now make sure both cam and crank stay in position and slip timing belt back on (you can move the cam gear to get the belt on but make sure the marks are aligned after the belt is on). Last tighten the belt tensioner, I usually use my finger or an extension to get some more tension on the belt. You might have to remove engine mount bracket makes life much easier as the front cover section is TIGHT !!!. Turn engine a few times to make sure you have compression and engine turns without getting stuck. See link below good luck.
set mark on crankshaft to TDC mark on timing cover. set mark on cam pulley to align with mark on head .if more than one mark on pulley rotate by hand till exhaust and inlet just rocking then align closest marks .
and engine needs fuel, spark and air to run. If you are sure you have fuel and spark, the timing is the last thing to check. Your engine is provided with external alignment marks. take out all of your plugs, and by hand, turn your engine over until you see your harmonic balancer (pulley your belt is on at the bottom of the engine/crank) alignment marks meet with the marks on the engine block. Next you need to look at your cam gears. You might have to pull a plastic cover, or the valve cover off to see the cam gears. The cam gears have alignment marks as well. If all marks line up together at the same time, timing is not the issue. the timing belt is an iffy design. The timing belt tensioner could be warn out and only show signs or being warn out every now and then. your tensioner could have loosened up, caused your belt to jump, and clamp back again.
If the timing was 180 out it wouldn't run at all.
Do a compression test to make sure all the cylinders are in good condition, go back over your timing and make sure you aren't overlooking something like two plug leads swapped?, it sounds like it's only firing on two.
When you look at the engine on the pulley end you must find a triangular pointer on the main pulley and then look at the two or four cam pulleys for a dot like dent on the fin of the pulley. These are marks for timing, firstly you set the main pulley with the timing mark on the pulley to the triangular mark on the engine just above the pulley to the right or to the left, then you put both cam mark facing each other on the insides level with the top of the block. that it you should be able to start her up if your plug timing is in order,
re-install belt, lining up the timing marks, crank to TDC #1 cylinder, cma pulleys have marks on them, line them up to the index marks as well. If you have a drive wheel in the air, you can pop the car into 5th gear (make sure it's chocked!) and rotate the wheel to turn the engine for alignment, etc. You can put a wrench/socket on the cam bolt to align it as well.