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In this situation I would check the starter motor solenoid, you are lucky the ECU did not fry cause it would cost more than the car is worth. Starter motor is not that expensive, also check all main relays and fuses. Check the wiring as well. If all fine the ignition coil and ignition barrell would be last. If it is possible plug a computer and run diagnostics too.
At the starter relay, you have two red or purple wires, one goes to the starter and the other comes from a 30amp fuseable link. Is that fuseable link circuit hot ?
From the key switch, power goes thru the alarm relay, then the clutch safety switch or automatic selector switch, then to the starter relay. The fourth wire on the starter relay is a ground.
You should be able to put power to the starter relay on the white or yellow wire coming from the safety switch to make the relay engage.
My guess is something wrong with the alarm system.
Hi Anonymous, lift up rubber boot on positive cable to starter, unplug starter relay wire usually green, with a jumper wire connected to positive battery cable starter stud, touch blade connecter on starter where starter relay wire was removed. If starter engages and turns over engine then your starter relay is bad. If starter activates but does not engage then your starter drive/clutch is bad. Good luck
well, kinda. there are "fuseable links" and relays that power big chunks of the vehicle's electrical needs. no electricity NOwhere? if that's accurate I would focus on battery, cables, and especially connections. use jumper cables to bypass positive and negative cables to test. voltage (use test light) to starter? if you jump the switch wire on the solenoid to the positive post, the starter engages? If you have power between the engine and battery, SOMEthing should be able to come on, if you're sure you're to this point, then focus on fuseable links and relays. if you are a novice you will want to tackle stuff at this level, the smartest thing to do first is get a manual.
You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.
You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?
If your starter has 2 or more small wires on it you may have switched the terminals. If you have a separate starter relay you can bypass the relay with a jumper cable and send 12 volts to the starters only main cable. It should crank, have it in Park (Auto) or Neutral (stick shift). If the starter does not crank bypassed then the only thing missing is a good ground. Use a pair of jumper cables and try grounding the starter case and connect the cable to a good ground. With the gauges dancing usually a bad ground is the reason, so the jumper cables will help with that problem too, at least for test reasons.
If you had the old starter tested, then you know it was the first problem. But if the old starter was not tested your problem could be a bad starter relay, an ignition switch,or finally a bad ground. Check the grounding of the remote starter relay, check for a plug-in connector off the end of the steering column for corrosion.
Ford loves that relay.. Jump the two big posts on the relay. the starter should crank. the little post is from your ignition switch. Jumping the two large terminal bypasses the relay. Make sure the vehicle is in neutral with the brake set.Once you know how to do that, try to key dtart in park, then neutral. If it won't do anything, Your neutral safety switch is defective.
If it will start in any gears, again bad neutral switch. Be careful and good luck. Use a jumper cable to jump the two posts. Anything smaller can get you shock or burned.