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Re: Mazda 626 timing
If the timing was 180 out it wouldn't run at all.
Do a compression test to make sure all the cylinders are in good condition, go back over your timing and make sure you aren't overlooking something like two plug leads swapped?, it sounds like it's only firing on two.
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I am showing a 2.5 engine in a Mazda truck, but its generally the same as a 2.3.
Its not supposed to be an interference engine, so no damage should have occured when the belt broke. Its possible the cam gear is 180 degrees off, but if the marks are lined up by the book it should be correct. Its very possible the marks are a few teeth off since the cam gear can move when the tensioner is released.
Checking compression on all 4 cylinders will tell you if the valves are in the right place.
set mark on crankshaft to TDC mark on timing cover. set mark on cam pulley to align with mark on head .if more than one mark on pulley rotate by hand till exhaust and inlet just rocking then align closest marks .
I'm back, Gary-like that commercial on tv where mechanics chase cars down the road on creepers! You have a failing connection somewhere. If you rock it and it works, don't sound like a relay-don't sound like the neutral safety switch-it really sounds like a failing starter or starter solenoid. To check, wait till it won't start, then check for power at solenoid wire when key is held in crank. If power then, suspect a bad starter or solenoid-have tested. If no power, try a new relay-starter relay. Another relay in your car may be same as the starter relay (same part number) so try swapping a different relay. Again, doesn't sound like relay, but you never know until tested. Good luck.
and engine needs fuel, spark and air to run. If you are sure you have fuel and spark, the timing is the last thing to check. Your engine is provided with external alignment marks. take out all of your plugs, and by hand, turn your engine over until you see your harmonic balancer (pulley your belt is on at the bottom of the engine/crank) alignment marks meet with the marks on the engine block. Next you need to look at your cam gears. You might have to pull a plastic cover, or the valve cover off to see the cam gears. The cam gears have alignment marks as well. If all marks line up together at the same time, timing is not the issue. the timing belt is an iffy design. The timing belt tensioner could be warn out and only show signs or being warn out every now and then. your tensioner could have loosened up, caused your belt to jump, and clamp back again.
I can think of two possible causes: 1 - Assuming you are getting spark at the plugs, the distributor may be reinstalled 180 deg off. 2 - Unlikely but - Assuming you are getting fuel into the cylinders, the fuel injector connectors were reinstalled improperly and are firing out of sequence. If you are not getting fuel into the cylinders, it's something else.
Well you have good compression so your cylinders are OK.
I cannot help you with the vacuum hoses, but, try and plug them because if they are sucking air they will make the mixture weak and that will cause the engine to run badly.
To be honest if it is rocking about as much as you say then I would suggest it is only running on three cylinders. If you are happy with the sparkplugs and HT leads then it has to be a fuel problem, the injector with the broken plastic part? are you sure its operating correctly?
When you look at the engine on the pulley end you must find a triangular pointer on the main pulley and then look at the two or four cam pulleys for a dot like dent on the fin of the pulley. These are marks for timing, firstly you set the main pulley with the timing mark on the pulley to the triangular mark on the engine just above the pulley to the right or to the left, then you put both cam mark facing each other on the insides level with the top of the block. that it you should be able to start her up if your plug timing is in order,