I just recently had to replace my left front wheel bearing on my 1991 Ford Festiva, and my mechanic told me that the races in the spindle unit that housed the bearings were worn and that I would soon have to replace the spindle or face having my wheel bearings fail again. Is this particular item a junkyard item or can it be located thru a parts dealer?
I'm not a mechanic. But since you've had no answer, here goes.
Each wheel bearing replaced contains a race and bearings of its own. If your mechanic replaced the cup that the bearing sat in (steel ring with a tapered inside that matches the angle of the rollers) then there is nothing more to do with the wheel bearings to make the bearings last.
Now the steering on the other hand... The axle goes through the wheel hub horizontally - allows forward rolling for the wheels. The steering needs a similar thing, but it can't use an axle as there is already one going through the hub. For the steering, picture a big hand that grips your wheel hub, holding only at the top and bottom. Where the fingers and thumb (ie the spindles top and bottom) met the hub, there needs to be some sort of bearing or sealed pivot point as well. This allows the hub to turn when the vehicle is steered.
This may be what he was talking about, and it is quite feasible that some of its components may need replacing as they are a load bearing point. But... I wouldn't have thought it would extend the life of your wheel bearings drastically as they do different jobs. Have a chat to the mechanic to clarify what he/she said. I don't think they are being dishonest - maybe exaggerating the requirement a little.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
remove the wheel, remove the spindle dust cover and remove tho cotter pin and remove brake caliper and finally remove thr spindle nut,washer and inner bearing and finally the rotor. remove the dudt seal on the back of the rotor and finally the inner braeings.when you replace the bearings make sure that you replace the races and install a new seal on the rotor
does the sound go up when you trottle up?
put each wheel off the ground,put your left hand between the spring,
turn the wheel.when the bearing is bad you feel it in your left hand the trembling from that bearing.try each wheell.see iff any rubber off the excaust is good..
deff sounds like a wheel bearing to me. i bought a 91 festiva 3 weeks ago and ive had to replace the bearings on both sides. really be careful driving on that because it could straight up lock the wheel on you or fall off the spindle which causes more hell than you want to deal with. trust me!!
I am assuming it is a two wheel drive unit. Remove the wheel. Remove the caliper assembly from the axle and support it so it soes not just hang from the brake line. Pull the dust cap off from the center of the axle end. Remove the cotter key fron the nut. Remove the nut. Gently pull the rotor assembly from the axle spindle. Remove the seal on the inside of the rotor assembly. Lift the inner bearing out of the race. Use a drift pin to remove the race from the hub. Be careful not to score the inside of the hub where the race mounts. Do the same process for the outer bearing. Replace the race and make sure it is fully seated. Grease the new bearings. Replace the inner wheel seal with a new one. Slide the hub back onto the spindle. Place the flat washer on the spindle with the nut and seat the bearings to about 20 pounds torque and back off about 1/8 turn and snug again and replace the kotter key with a new one,. Replace the dust cap back onto the hub and your done.
Front rotors on a 2 wheel drive means you have to take out bearings and all, it is recomended that you replace the bearings and races because they will have to be removed to turn the rotors might add 30 bucks to the total , you should check around because some rotors are cheap enough to replace instead of turning them. You can re-use the bearings as long as you are careful not to damage the races
Remove the brakes, caliper and caliper braket, remove center dust cap, remove cotterkey and spindel nut, pull rotor off you might need to give it a whack with a deadblow hammer to get it off of the seal in the back, front bearing should fall out in your hand ,with the rotor off gently pry the rear grease seal out (have a new one on hand they damage easy) remove rear bearing. Clean all the grease out of the rotor center so you can see what you are doing, once cleaned with the front of the rotor on the table you should see some notches at the bottom race,this is where you will place your punch to remove the race, flip the rotor over and do the same to remove the other race. Borrow or rent the proper tool to put the races back in, they have to go in straight and you will probably damage the races putting them back in with a punch. When you put it all back together remember to re grease everything. Do not over tighten the spindle nut when putting the rotor back on,tighten it enough to take out any play then tighten it just enough to line up the holes for the cotterkey. Then take it to a mechanic and get the bearing runout checked and set.then put your brakes back on