I have taken my subaru to three different mechanics and none of them have been able to fix my car's problem. It turns over and starts but as soon as I go to go up a hill there is no real power to speak of. It moves at a sluggish pace.
I had similar problem with mine replaced the air flow meter and gave it a oil change and before putting oil back in I put 3 litres of auto transmission oil in it and ran in on full idle for 15mins drained that and then oil. This was from the advice of my dad who is a mechanic.
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A clogged fuel filter may be the problem to your Subaru not starting or a fuel pump problem. The list of reasons why your Outback will not start and run goes on. A gasoline powered engine requires three main components to start and run, proper amount of fuel, oxygen and a spark.
I personally had a problem with my fuel pump not turning on and pumping the proper amount of fuel to the injectors. A fuel pump is easy to replace and remove. Do to the nature of gasoline being extremely combustible and corrosive I would HIGHLY suggest having your outback inspected buy a mechanic that is qualified to work on Subaru vehicles.
I also had a problem with the coil pack not providing enough power to the spark plugs. Replacing the coil pack is relatively easy a 10 mm socket will remove most of the bolts that will need to be removed.The coil pack essentially provides the spark for the engine to continue running. This is a part that is commonly over looked by DIY mechanics.
I did at one point have a problem with a sensor that would detecthow much oxygen the engine was using and needed. I replaced that and my Subaru ran beautiful.
If what I have mentioned above feel uncomfortable for you to replace please have a qualified person fix your Subaru with there hands.
Donna, your mechanic is both right and wrong. The heater for pretty much all cars comes from the hot coolant running through a heat exchanger (core) under your dash. This is the same coolant that runs through your radiator. Yours sprung a leak in the heater core under the dash - ergo, coolant in the pax floor and none in your radiator. Using a hose to bypass the heater core is a cheap way to avoid a very expensive repair. The downside is that you will have no heat for the car or to blow warm air on the windshield to remove "fog" - a safety issue. This is also a dumb idea if you live where winters are frigid. In summertime, what your mechanic suggested is a reasonable, temporary fix. In the wintertime, not so much.
The wire that he replaced was most likely the alternator wire.
The alternator may need to be replaced.
Have it checked and replaced if necessary.
This is the device that powers the entire vehicle while its running, so it is pretty important!
Ask what the codes from the CEL come up, maybe we can help diagnose a little further.
your clicking noise is from a bad turn signal switch get that replaced and it will fix the problem. as for the battery drain issue you need to take it to a dealer or a very good mechanic that has dealt with VW before and have them do a parasitic draw test. that means their is a source that is pulling amperage from your battery even though the key is off.