Question about 1987 Ford Ranger

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Bogging down once engine is running and warm, im driving down the road and it losses power and boggs down, then about a minute later it starts running fine and has full power, the problem also goes away when i stomp on the gas, but comes right back. whats going on here?

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  • mjuschak Sep 27, 2008

    Same problem - intermittent surging, loss of power. One mechanic replaced the resistor in the ignition circuit (under the hood in a plastic holder) and the problem seemed to go away. He said it was intermittent and changed value when it was wiggled. The problem is back now.
    Any help would be appreciated.


  • weezer1745 Dec 02, 2008

    also have the same problem. replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, map sensor, egr valve, egr solenoid, o2 sensor, pcv valve, throttle position sensor, and distributor. problem went away for about 3 months after i replaced the o2 sensor and tps but came back suddenly. its parked now until someone can tell me whats wrong.

  • mjuschak Dec 31, 2008

    Just an update on my problem. I recently replaced the short vacuum line going to the vapor cannister near the radiator. The truck is running good now.
    I don't want to say that it's fixed since it's fooled me before.
    Definitely check all the vacuum lines!
    Also purchased an OBD1 code scanner with an lcd display. They aren't very expensive if you look on the net. If the problem comes back at least I can read the codes and narrow it down.


  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    Do you have any trouble codes or a CEL indicator on? if not clean the MAF sensor with CRC MAF cleaner spray, you may have a dirty heated wire in the MAF.





    FixYa.com claims they have factory repair manuals, they have nothing of the sort ,this is false advertising, we experts are not employed by FixYa.com, we help free of charge as much as we can with the general automotive knowledge we have learned while working as auto technicians, I think allot of people don't understand this.

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I had a the same problem. You need to check the vacum lines from the top of the intake to the fire wall, the lines will dry an crack an are easily broke. I fixed mine for now with simple straws an duck tape but its back to running the way it should. My truck was hit an i had the problems afterward, i also had a problem with my brake being too stiff i couldn't even get the pedal halfway down when running but the truck ran like a scared dog, this is what lead me to the vacums. The master brake boster hose had been tore bout half an inch out from the intake an when parked ran fine, just while moving would shift an cause my problems, After fixing this i went on to check all my lines. An ALL the lines on top were cracked or broke in some way. Well hope i helped, best of luck

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

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